Ukrainian wine: A renaissance against all of the odds

An iconic photo of Valeriy Tintulov

Ukraine, often overshadowed by its European counterparts, boasts a centuries-old winemaking tradition. The vineyards here have witnessed the rise and fall of empires, from the Scythians to the Byzantines. However, despite being at war with Russia, it’s in recent years that Ukrainian wine has experienced a remarkable resurgence.

Ukraine’s diverse terroir plays a pivotal role in shaping its wines.

From the sun-kissed slopes of Crimea to the fertile soils of Transcarpathia, each region contributes unique characteristics.

The Black Sea’s moderating influence ensures mild winters and warm summers, ideal for grape cultivation.

Ukrainian vineyards host an array of grape varieties. While international stars like Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot thrive, it’s the indigenous grapes that steal the show. Varieties like Rkatsiteli, Saperavi, and Fetească Albă add a distinct Ukrainian flair.

Ukrainian winemakers face challenges—political instability, economic shifts, and climate fluctuations.

Yet, their resilience shines through. They’re reclaiming forgotten grape varieties, experimenting with organic practices, and gaining recognition on the global stage.

Producer: Villa Tinta

Villa Tinta’s story begins in the picturesque village of Oksamytne, nestled in the Bolgrad district of

the Odesa region. Here, 120 years ago, the historic wine making Château of Count Davidoff stood, and today, Villa Tinta continues that legacy.

Founded by Valery Tintulov, a highly reputable winemaker in Ukraine, the family estate winery has been crafting exceptional wines since 1998.

Valery’s wife, Tetyana, and their children, Kostiantyn and Yuriy, now carry forward this rich tradition.

Villa Tinta’s vineyards sprawl across 500 hectares, gracing the unique plots of Danubian Bessarabia.

These vineyards are kissed by the Karakurt River on one side and Lake Yalpug on the other. The terroir here is extraordinary, nurturing French and Italian white varieties such as Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Riesling, and Sauvignon Blanc. For reds, they cultivate Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Bastardo, and Saperavi. But it’s the local grape varieties that truly shine: Sukholimansky (white) and Odesa Black (red). These indigenous grapes are not only unique but also vital for the region’s winemaking heritage.

Villa Tinta proudly presents its flagship wine brand, which bears the same name.

These wines embody the essence of Ukrainian winemaking, reflecting the passion and dedication of the Tintulov family. But that’s not all—Villa Tinta also crafts Charmat sparkling wines under the brand name Tintarella. These effervescent delights add a touch of celebration to any occasion.

Villa Tinta Premium Collection Irsai Oliver 2022 (£13.45 from Cellar Door Wines)

Made from the hand-picked, Irsai Oliver grape variety, (also known as Fűszeres Irsai) from the sun-drenched vineyards of Villa Tinta, the grapes are gently pressed to extract their aromatic juice.

Expect aromas of white flowers and lychee and on the palate a crisp acidity balanced with a touch of honeyed sweetness. It’s a fantastic light-bodied and refreshing wine, perfect for spring and pairing with Sushi, sashimi, Thai or Vietnamese cuisine or a goat’s cheese salad.

Villa Tinta VIP Wine Selection Odesa Black 2019 (£16.95 from Cellar Door Wines)

Made from the native Odesa Black (Saperavi) grape variety, they are hand-harvested Odesa Black grapes, undergo extended maceration for intense colour and flavour extraction and finishes with a little ageing of six months, in French oak barrels.

Expect a rich bouquet of blackberries, plums, and spices, velvety tannins and a long, satisfying finish.

The ideal food pairing is grilled lamb chops, Beef stroganoff and I’d even stretch as far a dark chocolate dessert.

Keen to find out more about Ukrainian wines? Then why not join Penny Edwards with Ukrainian wine representative Tania Olevska, for their Wines of Ukraine Tasting on May 16. This is a very special opportunity to explore the wine regions and native grape varieties of Ukraine and support the wine producers who are continuing to make brilliant wines, despite their current challenges. Your ticket also includes delicious sharing platters of cheese, charcuterie and savoury snacks.



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