29 Jan 2024
This is a question that has been on the minds of many wine enthusiasts. Natural wines are made with minimal intervention, using organic or biodynamic grapes and native yeasts, and without any additives or chemicals. They are known for their gamier, yeastier characteristics and a cloudy appearance.
However, it’s important to note that not all natural wines are pleasant, and some can be downright undrinkable – hazy, cidery, fizzy and oxidised are all characteristics that some people may not enjoy. In this week’s column, we will explore the world of natural wines and help you understand what makes them unique and how to find the ones that suit your taste buds, including two wonderful wines from Cellar Door Wines.
First up, they’re not a new invention, you can trace the origins and evolution of natural wines, from ancient times to the present day. They are somewhat a return to the traditional and ancestral methods of winemaking that existed before the industrialisation and standardisation of the wine industry.
Historical figures and regions that influenced the natural wine movement include the ancient Greeks and Romans, the medieval monks, the Georgian qvevri, and the French Jura and Beaujolais.
Natural wines have certainly grown in popularity and are appealing to a diverse and growing segment of wine drinkers, especially young and hip urbanites who value authenticity and sustainability.
Natural wines also reflect the current trends and tastes of society, such as the organic, local, and artisanal movements, the anti-globalisation and anti-corporate sentiments, and the quest for novelty and diversity.
However, they are not without controversy, as different perspectives and preferences exist among wine lovers. Some people question whether natural wines are really natural, since there is no official definition or regulation for the term. They’re not certified or controlled by any authority, and each producer has their own interpretation and philosophy of what natural wine means. Some people argue that natural wines are just a fad or a trend, driven by marketing and hype, and that they will soon lose their appeal.
Thankfully, having tasted a fair few as part of my quest to explore new wines during ‘Try January’, I have discovered an amazing natural winemaker and have two of his wine for you to taste.
André Gomes Pereira is the fifth generation of winemakers at Quinta do Montalto, a historic family-run farm in Ourem, Portugal. He has been making wine since he was a little boy, and he took over the vineyards and cellar in 20022. He is a pioneer of organic farming in Portugal, and he has been certified organic since 1997. He also makes low intervention wines under the Cluricaun label, named after a fairy linked to wine cellars and wine consumption. He uses a variety of vessels, including stainless steel tanks, wooden vats, and amphoras (a clay vessel that was used to transport wine and other goods centuries ago) coated with natural pine tree resin, following the ancient process used by the Romans.
He is passionate about preserving the local grape varieties and traditions, and he also has a project called Uncondemned, which aims to reclaim abandoned centenarian vineyards. His natural wines are expressive, fruity, and mineral, reflecting the terroir and the history of his region.
Cluricaun Pet Nat 2022 (£19.95 Cellar Door Wines)
A lovely sparkling wine from Portugal, made with Arinto, Olho de Lebre, and Fernão Pires grapes. Pet Nat, short for Pétillant Naturel, is a sparkling wine made by bottling still fermenting juice allowing it to finish its fermentation in bottle. Unlike Champagne or other sparkling wines there isn’t a second fermentation started by adding sugar and yeast. It is a simpler process and is made to be light and refreshing.
It has a medium lemon-yellow colour and floral aromas of citrus fruits and mineral notes. On the palate, it is fresh and elegant, with bright acidity that balances the wine. This wine is perfect for celebrating or pairing with light dishes and appetizers. Penny Edwards explains: “It is made to be drunk young as an aperitif or on a picnic and for me it takes the place of a cider or light beer – and goes with the same kinds of foods. When introducing people to it in the shop I sometimes refer to it as a grape cider though of course it is fully a wine.”
Ânfora de Baco 2022 Quinta do Montalto (£21 Cellar Door Wines)
A red wine from Portugal, also made with Aragonez (Tempranillo), Syrah, and Trincadeira grapes. It is fermented and aged in amphorae, which are clay vessels coated with natural tree resin, according to the ancient process used by the Romans.
This gives the wine a remarkable fruitiness of strawberry plum and cranberry, and minerality with structure and accessibility. It is also unfiltered and unfined, making it a natural and vegan-friendly choice. This wine is ideal slightly chilled and for enjoying with grilled meats, cheeses, and pasta dishes.
Personally, I’ve found that natural wines are more variable and unpredictable, and more prone to faults, spoilage, and oxidation. I’d even go as far to say they are an acquired taste!
One thing is for sure, they are not likely to end anytime soon, as they represent a broader movement that seeks to reconnect with nature, tradition, and culture.
They have the potential to inspire and influence the future of the wine industry, as they challenge the status quo and offer new possibilities and perspectives and have the opportunity to grow and improve.
If you are interested in exploring beyond natural wines then be sure to check out the upcoming tasting events at Cellar Door Wines ‘Burgundy Wine Tasting with Maison Chanzy’, is taking place on Thursday 7th March at 7.30pm. Tickets can be purchased in advance.
If you’re looking for even more wine recommendations, then please follow me on Instagram @dmc_uncorked. And if you are a wine retailer or a drinks PR company who would like me to feature your range of wines, then please contact me via mccabetwe@gmail.com
