26 Mar 2024
Unless you spent your formative years in 1970s and ‘80s Russia, chances are you’ve yet to savour the delights of Bulgarian wine. Dating back to the Thracian era, grape cultivation and winemaking have woven themselves into Bulgaria’s cultural fabric. Archaeological findings trace Bulgarian winemaking all the way to 4000 BC, making it one of the world’s oldest wine-producing regions.
What sets Bulgarian wines apart? Their aromatic allure, distinctive flavours, and deep-rooted vinicultural heritage. But there’s more: these wines boast antioxidant properties that rival the best in Europe, making each sip not only a pleasure for the palate but also a toast to well-being.
Explaining Bulgaria’s wine regions is not simple, but it’s helpful to acknowledge the distinct terroirs across Bulgaria’s wine regions. From the Danubian Plain to the Black Sea coast, each area contributes its own character to the wines. Whether it’s the sun-kissed grapes of the Danube or the maritime-influenced whites along the Black Sea, Bulgarian terroir plays a crucial role.
In an attempt to keep things simple, I’m going to highlight two regions. The Thracian Lowland (South Bulgaria):
The temperate continental climate and favourable rainfall pattern create ideal conditions for red wine production. Mavrud, a local gem, thrives alongside Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Muscatel, and Pamid.
The Thracian Valley, protected by the Balkan Mountains, offers wines with character and depth.
And the Struma River Valley (Southwest Bulgaria): Although small in size, this region stands out due to its distinct Mediterranean influence. Located in the historical region of Macedonia, it’s home to unique terroir.
The Struma River Valley produces wines that reflect both tradition and innovation.
The first wine is Bratanov ‘Symbiose’ Chardonnay Blend 2021 (£15.95 from Cellar Door Wines). The Bratanov Family Winery was founded by a father and his sons, Hristo and Daniel. Their mission was to revive the family’s wine tradition after a 50-year hiatus. Nestled on the sun-kissed slopes of South Sakar near the village of Shishmanovo in the Harmanli region, these 24 hectares of vineyards boast some of Bulgaria’s finest terroirs.
Established in 2010, the winery has meticulously crafted limited batches of wine, overseeing every step from grape to bottle with minimal intervention.
Deeply rooted in family heritage, Bratanov pays homage to their children by naming select wines after them: Syrah Elitsa, Chardonnay Beloslava, and Rosé Maria.
This wine is a blend of 60% Chardonnay, 25% Viognier and 15% Tamyanka (contributing to the aromatics in this wine and thought to be a local muscat relative, it is in fact Muscat à Petit Grains).
The wine opens with a rich and intense nose, revealing captivating notes of citrus and delicate flowers. On the palate, it strikes a harmonious balance—medium-bodied, fresh, and zesty—with flavours of lime, white peach, and acacia and a lovely mineral finish.
Pair this delightful wine as an aperitif or enjoy it alongside salads, seafood, or white meats accompanied by herb sauces. The production is limited to 10,000 bottles, and it’s important to note that this wine is not cold-stabilised, which means natural crystal sediments may appear in the bottle (they are completely harmless).
Logodaj Melnik 55 2022 (£16.95 from Cellar Door Wines) Logodaj Winery is located in the very heart of the beautiful valley along the Struma River in Southwestern Bulgaria. Their vineyards are situated next to the village of General Todorov, in the middle of the Petrich- Sandanski valley, between the town of Melnik and the ancient city of Heraclea Sintica.
The region surrounding Logodaj Winery boasts specific climatic features, akin to the Mediterranean. Here, on an expansive 700-acre canvas, they cultivate a harmonious blend of indigenous and international grape varieties.
Founded in 1994 by Peter Drosanski and a couple of friends, initially just to provide high strength spirits. But with fierce competition, they turned their attention to producing harmonious, multilayered and complex wines with rich and pronounced fruitiness and focusing on the local indigenous grape varieties of Struma Valley.
Their practices are dictated by the nature of the vintage, hand-harvesting only when the grapes are fully ripe, the grapes of the individual vineyards fermented separately in respect and emphasis of the unique terroir.
This wine is made with 100% Melnik 55 (also known as Early Melnik Vine), the signature red local indigenous grape variety of Struma Valley, which was also favourite of Sir Winston Churchill back in the days and he had regular annual shipment of Melnik red wines to the cellar at 10 Downing Street.
This red wine displays intense fruity aromas of cherries, wild herbs, and delicate vanilla. On the palate, it is well-balanced, offering black cherry and forest fruit notes, along with hints of tobacco and red pepper. The wine has juicy acidity and a long finish. It pairs well with dishes like lamb, pork, game, BBQ, and mushroom dishes, and therefore I’d have this on your list for Easter, pairing it beautifully with roast lamb.
Cheers to Bulgaria—a true gem in the world of wine!
