05 Jun 2024
Until my recent long weekend in Malta, I hadn’t appreciated that they produced wine there, let alone knowing just how good it was. This is partly due to the fact the quality is so good, they tend to keep most of it for the locals and keep exports to a minimum.
In the sun-kissed Mediterranean island of Malta, where ancient history and modern culture intertwine, stands Marsovin—a name synonymous with wine excellence.
Founded in 1919 by the visionary Chev. Anthony Cassar, Marsovin has etched its legacy into the very soil it cultivates.
Picture a time when horse-drawn carriages traversed cobblestone streets, and the scent of sea salt
lingered in the air. It was in this era that Chev. Anthony Cassar planted the seeds of Marsovin. He had the foresight to store his excess wines and then during World War II, when Malta was the heavily bombed and no goods were coming in or out of the country, he had wine reserves which he could sell and make his fortune.
Originally known as A&G Cassar, the winery underwent a transformation in 1956, emerging as the Marsovin we recognise today (named after the area “Marsa” which is the Maltese word for port, and the French word for wine ‘vin’). His son Joe, after spending time in France and Italy, lead the way in bringing innovation into the Maltese wine making industry.
First up was temperature-controlled fermentation tanks, initially it was concrete, extremely important when making wine in the height of summer – no one wants fermentation to stop or unwanted funky flavours developing with the heat.
The second innovation was the first bottled wine in Malta, one red and one white from local varietals, still available today at an accessible price point “not a money-making wine but more to do with pride and joy”.
Keen to take more control the quality of their wines, they moved away from buying other people’s grapes and bought their own land to grow grapes. Fast forward to today and their vineyards sprawl across five private estates, totaling over 199 tumuli of land. These estates—each with its unique character—yield grapes that carry the essence of Maltese terroir. The sun-drenched slopes, the gentle sea breeze, and the rocky limestone soil conspire to create wines that resonate with history and passion.
As I stepped into Marsovin’s cellars, housed within a centuries-old building that once stored timber for shipbuilding, and echoed with the footsteps of the Knights of St. John, I was greeted by Brandon Kriel, the Cellar Manager.
He started our visit with a talk through the history of Marsovin and stories of the first to the fourth- generation family owners, before leading way around the cellar with more than 220 oak barrels cradling the promise of future vintages. The air was thick with the aroma of aging red wines — their flavours maturing, their stories unfolding.
We completed our tour with a relaxing guided tasting of wines from the Marsovin portfolio and a light lunch.
Odyssey Rosé Limited Edition
This fine off-dry and fruity rose was one of my favourites and one I made sure I brought home with me. It’s made for food, which can’t always be said for rose wine. Made with Syrah and Grenache from Gozo, giving you a darker colour. It has an intense aroma reminiscent of raspberries, strawberries and a bit of spice coming through. With a little residual sugar, this is dangerously easy to drink.
1919 Malta Red 2023
An interesting style, made using the indigenous Maltese grape, Gellewza, displaying a complex, full-bodied red wine with intense ripe fruit aromas of forest berries, cherries and figs. Underlined by distinct notes of peppery, sweet spice and a hint of fresh tobacco. On the palate it is very smooth with plenty of ripe, velvety tannins and a very pleasant, long lingering finish. Each year the winery commissions one artist to create three paintings and each bottle of 1919 has a picture of artwork as a label.
Cassar de Malte Brut 2021
This is the only quality sparkling wine produced in Malta using the original traditional method. Its unique character is thanks to the Chardonnay grapes from the Wardija valley estate. Spending approximately 18 months on the lees, the very limited bottles produced, have rich notes of brioche, toast and honey, beautifully balanced with lovely freshness from its excellent acidity.
Antonin Blanc 2023
Produced from selected Chardonnay grapes harvested from the Ramla Valley Estate in Gozo. The fermentation on lees and oak barrel maturation contributes an important aspect to the wine’s essential character with aromas of vanilla and burnt toast giving way to crisp citrus and apple notes on the palate. It is full and round in the mouth, retaining its freshness, great balance and aromatic on the nose with a minerality on the finish.
Antonin Noir 2021
Made from a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc grapes all harvested from Marsovin’s Marnisi Estate in Marsaxlokk with Merlot being the dominant grape. The distinct fruity characteristics of cherries, blackcurrants and blueberries make this wine enjoyable in its youth while the 12 months ageing in French oak barrels gives it a velvety finish on the palate and excellent ageing potential.
101 Marsovin Brut Rosé 75cl
This wine is being released as Special edition 101, representing the number of years since the winery was first established. It’s the first and only rosé sparkling wine made in the Traditional Method from a cuvée of predominantly indigenous Ġellewża and selected Chardonnay grapes. The wine has a fine natural sparkle, a complex and elegant bouquet with lingering floral and fragrant berry notes.
So, if you happen to find yourself in Malta, be sure to book a tour and wine tasting at Marsovin Cellars and pay tribute to Marsovin’s century-long journey, its vines rooted in passion, and its wines that sing of sunsets over the Mediterranean.
