16 Aug 2023
Darren McCabe offers his weekly wine recommendations (@dmc_uncorked)
Welcome to this week’s Wine Times! I’m still away on holiday, moving from Devon into Cornwall, where I’ve had time to reflect.
As part of these reflections, I decided to it was time for a refreshed identity for my Instagram haven, re-branding and changing it to DMC_UNCORKED!
For those already following me, you’ll continue to get my broader wine recommendations, and to those who haven’t embarked on this wine journey yet, I extend a warm invitation to seek me out on Instagram and join in by hitting that friendly “Follow” button.
Talking of holidays, whenever I opt for a staycation, I always like to take a few bottles of wine from home, to cover the first few nights of being away, before picking up some local wines.
So, it felt quite fitting that before we packed the car to go on holiday, I popped into Cellar Door Wines to pick up a bottle of a very local wine that Penny Edwards had put aside (as there are limited quantities produced).
I don’t think it’s possible to get any more local than Wimbushes Solaris 2022, which comes from a vineyard nestled in the heart of Chiswell Green.
Here, Andy Harrison and Karina Wardle have rekindled a winemaking tradition in St Albans, which lay dormant for half a millennium. These intrepid enthusiasts have breathed life back into the soil where Romans once tread and monks once toiled, producing a wine that pays homage to history while embracing the future.
The birth of Wimbushes vineyard was a serendipitous moment, a conversation over a glass of wine that sparked a dream.
This dream, nurtured over eight years, has blossomed into a reality marked by perseverance and learning.
The vineyard’s fortunate location shields it from the harsh frosts that challenge other Hertfordshire vineyards, allowing these grapes to bask in the sun’s embrace and flourish on the gentle slope. It’s a marriage of geography and climate that imparts a unique character to the wine.
Andy and Karina are always keen to enlist the help of the locals to help with the harvest and each year, Penny and the team dedicate time down in the vineyard to help carefully pick the grapes.
The journey from vine to bottle finds itself in Suffolk, in the hands of Michael and Irene Rhodes, who wone and run the Hawkswood vineyard and winery. Their skillful hands transform the grapes into a delightful wine, capturing the essence of the vineyard in every glass. Their commitment to artisanship is clear not only in Wimbushes Solaris but also in their own label, Hawkswood. The dedication and expertise of these vintners bring to life a wine that reflects the heart and soul of the English terroir.
As I taste my first glass, I am reminded of the dedication and passion that went into crafting this local gem. With only 700 to 1000 bottles crafted per vintage, each drop carries a sense of exclusivity and care that resonates with every sip.
I am captivated by its vibrant hue and enticed by its ripe, tropical aromas, followed by the taste of tropical fruits, apple, and ripe pear. This is not just a wine; it’s a connection to history, a tribute to perseverance, and a celebration of the extraordinary journey undertaken by those who dared to revive the art of winemaking in St Albans.
Solaris is a fairly new grape for me but was actually created by Norbert Becker, in 1975 at the Grape Breeding Institute in Freiburg, Germany.
It’s an early ripening variety with good resistance against fungal diseases and frost. It gives wines which have fruity and perfumed aromas and medium acidity.
In a world where mass production often overshadows authenticity, Wimbushes Solaris 2022 stands as a beacon of tradition, innovation, and unwavering commitment. As I say, there are limited quantities of this wine, and its exclusively available from Penny and the team at Cellar Door Wines: Wimbushes Solaris 2022, £21 a bottle. Cheers to the revivalists, the dreamers, and the vines that have once again found their voice in the heart of St Albans.
If you are a wine retailer or an events company who would like me to feature your range of wines, then please contact me via mccabetwe@gmail.com or @dmc_uncorked
