26 Jun 2023
In the pursuit of another delightful cheese and wine paring, this week’s Wine Times takes me back to Ed and his team at Fleetville Larder, writes Wine Enthusiast Darren McCabe.
One of the things I love about their range of wines, despite their taste, is the funky labels, interesting names and the fascinating stories behind the label. This week’s wine has been a highly entertaining to taste and research. It’s the Black Elephant Vintners & Co. Sauvignon Blanc 2022, called ‘Two Dogs, a Peacock and a Horse’ (£16.50 at Fleetville Larder).
The name, Two Dogs, a Peacock and a Horse, offers an intriguing enigma that invites contemplation.
It speaks to the winery’s commitment to embracing individuality and celebrating the beauty found in diversity. Each animal represents a distinct facet of the wine’s character: the dogs symbolise loyalty and companionship, the peacock embodies elegance and flamboyance, and the horse personifies strength and grace. Or if I go with what the winemakers says, they just wanted a bit of fun and given a lot of South African wines are named after animals, often the Big 5, they decided to go against the grain with this one, by choosing animals not normally associated with South Africa.
They describe this wine as a ‘pool party’ wine, the ‘cheerleader’ that wants to be the centre of attention and apparently requires no intelligence to drink. It forms part of their ‘festival’ wine range created for fun, parties and good times. Stories and music are a key part of their philosophy – in fact, then most of us are matching our wine with food, they are pairing their wines with music. They highly recommend listening to ‘I Get Around’ by the Beach Boys, or ‘Dance Some More’ by Mango Groove. Check out more of their wines, tunes and funny stories at https://bevintners.co.za/
This is the 10th vintage of their much loved Two dogs, a Peacock and a Horse Sauvignon Blanc and the wine and vintage have really shown up for the celebration. The wine is translucent with a bright green hue. The nose is opulent and bursts with a cocktail of fruits, showing aromas of peach, passionfruit, pear, and lychee. The palate is lively and concentrated with flavours of melon, tropical fruits, and creamy richness from the extended lees contact and lingers with a vibrant acidity.
The acidity and fruit forward profile make it an excellent match for fresh seafood, especially oysters and grilled prawns. But its at its best when paired with a zesty goat’s cheese salad and luckily for me Ed had the Kidderton Ash Goats cheese to pair with it, along side Peter’s Yard, Rye and Charcoal Sourdough crackers.
Kidderton Ash is a true gem crafted by the fourth-generation cheesemakers nestled in the heart of rural Lancashire and stands as a testament to the dedication and expertise of this family-owned dairy.
Handmade with love and care, this goats cheese captures the essence of the surrounding Lancashire landscape. The cows, grazing in the neighbouring fields, provide the milk that forms the foundation of their other exceptional cheeses, while the goat’s milk, sourced just down the road, adds a delightful touch this Kidderton Ash.
At Throstle Nest Farm, the custodians of this cheese, Nicola, Matt, their children Henry and Cora, and their extended family pour their hearts into caring for the goats. It is a labour of love that extends seven days a week, where even young Henry lends a hand during feeding time.
Made from the freshest milk, which travels only a short distance to reach their dairy, it undergoes a meticulous process of pasteurisation and transformation into a silky-smooth
masterpiece. This attention to detail shines through in the final product.
The cheesemaking experts oversee each stage, handcrafting and maturing cheese with a unique touch. The cheese is lovingly coated and matured with ash, endowing it with a distinctive furry and speckled appearance.
The use of charcoal ash in this cheese is akin to the influence of an oak barrel in whisky production; it defines the cheese’s character. The ash contributes to the development of a unique rind, which not only adds visual intrigue but also captures the essence of its continuously evolving flavour profile.
Gone are the days of overpowering “goaty” flavours associated with goat’s cheese of the past.
Kidderton Ash surprises and delights the palate with a subtle sweetness that gradually gives way to an intense, deep flavour at the back.
It’s a revelation, challenging preconceptions and elevating the goat’s cheese experience to new heights.
So, head down to the larder, pick up your cheese and wine and then settle down and enjoy it with the delightful sounds of the Beach Boys.
