22 Dec 2023
In this week’s edition, I take a closer look at one of the most elegant and prestigious Champagne producers – Champagne Palmer & Co. Last month, I was lucky enough to attend a private tasting of Champagne Palmer & Co, with Raymond Ringeval, the global commercial director, at the charming Odette’s restaurant in London.
This Champagne House was founded in 1947 by seven families of growers, all very established and owners of prestigious with Premier Cru and Grand Cru vineyards in the Montagne de Reims region of Champagne. The seven shared a desire for perfection and a vision to create a Champagne house known for its passion for harmony, balance, and the pursuit of excellence.
The grands terroirs of the Montagne de Reims area are found in the northernmost part of the Champagne region, and is known for its chalky soils, which provide good drainage, mineral richness and thermal regulation for the vines. The Montagne de Reims is also home to some of the best Pinot Noir in Champagne, which gives the wines structure, body and fruitiness.
The Montagne de Reims is divided into several sub-regions, each with its own terroir and personality. For example, the villages of Verzenay and Verzy are famous for their south-facing slopes and their Pinot Noir grapes, which produce powerful and complex wines. The villages of Trépail and Villers-Marmery are renowned for their Chardonnay grapes, which grow on east-facing slopes and produce fresh and elegant wines. Palmer & Co sources grapes from 17 different crus in the Montagne de Reims, which allows them to create balanced and diverse blends.
In addition to the Montagne de Reims, they also sources grapes from other areas of Champagne, such as the Côte de Sézanne, the Côte des Bar and the Vallée de la Marne.
These areas have different terroirs and grape varieties, which add more nuances and complexity to the wines. For example, the Côte de Sézanne is similar to the Côte des Blancs, and produces fine and delicate Chardonnay. The Côte des Bar is the southernmost part of Champagne, and has a warmer climate and clayey soils, which produce ripe and fruity Pinot Noir. The Vallée de la Marne is the heart of Champagne, and has a diversity of soils and microclimates, which produce a range of grapes, such as Pinot Meunier, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
Champagne Palmer & Co is one of the rare champagne houses to have adapted the famous winemaking technique developed in Jerez to the wines of Champagne. In Champagne, the Solera (or perpetual reserve) system is refreshed every year with an addition of wines from the latest harvest.
The Solera system adds richness, complexity and consistency to the wines, as well as a touch of oxidation, which enhances the aromas and flavours.
The Palmer & Co quality is based, first of all, on Time, an essential ingredient of the House style.
Their Champagnes remain in contact with their yeast sediment for many years. The slow ageing on their lees gives the Palmer & Co wines their characteristic refinement and aromatic complexity. Their non-vintage cuvées age for a minimum of three years while the vintage cuvées are aged for six to eight years and their largest bottles age for 10 years or more.
The result of this meticulous work is a range of Champagnes that reflect the Palmer & Co style: harmony, balance and elegance. Their Champagnes are expressive, generous and refined, with a fine mousse, a creamy texture and a long finish.
Three Palmer & Co Champagnes
I had the opportunity to taste three of the Palmer & Co champagnes: the Blanc de Blancs, the Grand Terroirs 2015 and the Brut Reserve.
Blanc de Blancs (£43.99, was £53.99 Waitrose)
This is a 100% Chardonnay Champagne made from grapes sourced mainly from the magnificent vineyards of Trépail and Villers-Marmery, in Montagne de Reims. These Premiers Crus from the Montagne de Reims area, recognised for their elegance and freshness, are blended in a perfect accord with delicately fruity Chardonnay from the Côte de Sézanne. Choosing most of the grapes from the north of Champagne results in a Champagne that expresses more freshness, acidity and finesse of the grape variety. It has a delicate nose of white flowers, citrus and green apple, and a lively palate with fine bubbles and a long finish.
I loved this Champagne for its purity, freshness and elegance. It was very refreshing and delicate, with a lovely floral and fruity aroma and a crisp and clean taste. It was very well-balanced and smooth, with a fine and persistent mousse. It pairs very well with some oysters, salmon sashimi or caviar.
Ageing on the lees: 5 years
Dosage: 7g
Brut Reserve (£34 The Finest Bubble)
This is the signature Champagne of Palmer & Co, and a blend of 50-55%, Pinot Noir: 30-35%, Meunier: 20-25%, Reserve wines: 30-40% from the Solera. I liked this Champagne for its generosity, balance and refinement. It had a deep golden colour, a complex and fruity nose of ripe fruits, brioche and honey, and a rich and smooth palate with a creamy texture and a persistent aftertaste.
It was very well-balanced and consistent, with a fine and elegant mousse.
It is a versatile Champagne that appeals to everyone and can be enjoyed any time of day, breakfast, brunch, lunch or dinner and is amazing on its on as an aperitif or paired with a variety of dishes, from poultry to cheese.
Ageing on lees: 4 years
Dosage: 6-7g
Grand Terroirs 2015 (£60 The Finest Bubble, £65 Champagne Direct and £75 Hedonism)
This is a vintage Champagne that showcases the diversity and quality of Palmer & Co’s vineyards. A
Champagne ‘vintage’ refers simply to the year in which the grapes were grown. A ‘vintage Champagne’ must contain grapes from one single year (as opposed to ‘non-vintage’, ‘NV’,
Champagnes, which can contain grapes from different harvests). Not all years are created equal, however, and ‘vintages’ are declared by each Champagne producer independently, based solely on the quality of their grapes.
It is a blend of 50% Chardonnay and 38% Pinot Noir, 12% Meunier from the Grand and Premier crus in the Montagne de Reims. I enjoyed this Champagne for its complexity, intensity and elegance. It had a beautiful golden colour, a rich and refined nose of ripe fruits and nuts, and a full and expressive palate with a mineral and saline edge. It was very well-structured, fresh and harmonious, with a creamy and long-lasting finish. It is a gastronomic Champagne that can match with lobster, scallops or foie gras.
Ageing on the lees: 6-8 years
Dosage: 6-7g
Palmer & Co’s Champagnes are unanimously appreciated for their excellence and have won many awards and accolades in international wine competitions. They are a shining star in Champagne, and a testament to the art and passion of their winegrowers and cellar master. So, if you are looking for elegance, balance, freshness and refinement in every glass then look no further than Champagne Palmer!
