29 Jul 2024
Back in the days when I worked out of French Row, Zizzi was a favourite haunt for staff get-togethers (a tradition which has continued with ex-employees to this date), and also the chain of choice for my eldest progeny Anwen when she ended up participating in one of many bring-your-daughter-to-work days (basically any school hols).
So with the rest of the family away for the week, she was keen for us to revisit old times and escape my home cooking, while also checking out the extensive refurbishment carried out over the past few weeks, which proved to be far more than just a lick of paint and new seating.
Student illustrator Brianna Chartrand was given free rein to unleash her talents across the restaurant, including a mural which sees St Alban eating pizza next to the Clock Tower, Cathedral doors opening out into Market Place, and the Peregrine falcons which have chosen the Abbey as their breeding ground for the past three years.
The infamous warning – and tourist must-snap – on the small door to the rear of the Clock Tower is also reflected in giant neon signage repeating the ‘Commit no nuisance’ message, and there’s a new pergola and feature lighting in the rear outdoor seating area.
Although it was early on a Tuesday evening the restaurant was busy with frantic families seeking solace just a few days into the summer holidays, and couples who probably realised they should have booked a later slot. That made for a lively and buzzy atmosphere mind, and much better than had we been the only diners.
Browsing the menu, I supped that perennial beverage of Italian restaurants across the land, a large Peroni, while 12-year-old Anwen managed to consume her raspberry and mint cooler mocktail in less time than it took me to finish ordering our food. She was very thirsty, apparently.
Kicking off with some starters, Anwen opted for the old staple of cheesy garlic bread, while I thought I’d sample one of the new offerings on the menu, a ‘nduja and garlic bombe. This turned out to be a doughball the size of my fist, filled with the spicy sausage meat, and smothered with Roquito hot honey, which seems to be the dressing de rigueur in many eateries.
It proved impossible to finish, but what I managed to consume didn’t disappoint in the slightest, with the garlic never overwhelmed by the other flavours, and the doughball light and fluffy enough to avoid becoming that carb challenge you struggle to overcome.
For mains, my ever-adventurous eldest went for her favourite spaghetti Bolognese, which proudly announces its British provenance for the beef, while I chose another summer special, this time the Rustica Wagyu Royale with burrata pizza.
This featured Wagyu and beef meatballs, Roquito pepper pearls, candied green jalapenos, roasted red chilli, harissa, mozzarella and Roquito hot honey, with the whole thing topped off with slices of riserva cheese and a whole ball of fresh burrata. It actually sounds more excessive than it was, as the balance between the different ingredients was well-measured, and the burrata ball oozed a creamy goodness which perfectly complimented the different spices.
A remarkably enjoyable offering, this could very well be my new pick of pizza for future visits, which says something when I’ve been eating the same piccante option for as long as I can remember.
After a suitably long break between courses, we decided we had already eaten so much there really wasn’t room for dessert, and then promptly ordered some. In for a penny, and all that. I played it safe with a Twisted Affogato, scoops of vanilla gelato, amaretti biscuits and a shot of Aluna coffee liqueur which fortunately didn’t finish me off.
Anwen had no such reservations, going for the chocolate brownie sundae, a massive serving of chocolate gelato, salted caramel gelato, rich chocolate brownie and freshly whipped cream, topped with honeycomb and chocolate and salted caramel sauces to pour. She made a decent effort to finish it, but ended up leaving some of the ice cream, although the smile on her face said it had all been worthwhile.
You can’t really go wrong with Zizzi. It’s reliable, tasty Italian-inspired food in a warm and welcoming atmosphere. For a chain restaurant it offers much more of an eating experience than many other high street regulars, and the refurb of the St Albans venue really does capture something of the spirit and heritage of our great city, which shouldn’t be overlooked.
Stuffed and satisfied, Anwen and I headed home to veg out on the sofa and conclude our original Star Wars trilogy viewing marathon (rather apposite given the Jedi-themed messages on some of the doors in the restaurant’s basement), with a return visit to Zizzi already promised for our next dad and daughter evening out.
