15 Mar 2026
The pub might be old, but the menu is new, as Matt Adams discovers…
There are few better places to spend a cold winter’s night than in front of a hungry fire in the bar of Ye Olde Fighting Cocks, tucking into a hearty meal like so many thousands of people have done before.
Think about all those who have sat before that same hearth, feeling its warmth and watching the flames.
The weight of history can be felt in every wooden beam and pillar, every stone and brick, soaking up stories throughout the centuries.
Regardless of other pretenders to the throne, in our book the Fighters will always be England’s oldest pub, with the original structure dating back to 793AD, the same year Viking hoards laid siege to the monastery on Lindisfarne.
We’re also very protective of its name, having helped see off a publicity stunt by animal rights charity PETA to rebrand it as ‘Ye Olde Clever Cocks’ in 2015, arguing instead that its unpleasant associations with blood sports is just another part of its rich heritage.
Much of that heritage can be seen lining the walls and filling a display cabinet bulging with memorabilia, including dozens of photos and illustrations which if anything, show how little the Fighters has changed over the centuries.
Few will deny that the pub has a special place in the hearts of St Albans locals and visitors alike, but it’s only a few short years since it faced an uncertain future after previous landlord Christo Tofalli filed for bankruptcy in January 2022.
Fortunately former manager Martin Robinson, head chef Ian Baulsh and friend Sam Walker were able to take over the lease and reopen the venue the following April, introducing new menus and establishing a robust business plan to secure its long-term future.
Gone are the days of expensive follies like the YOFC’s own newspaper and the associated costs behind a proposed £1.75m expansion project, instead the focus now is purely on great food, great beer and a great atmosphere, a remarkably successful turnaround which will hopefully ensure its profitability in a challenging marketplace.
After braving the dark and drizzle of a weekday evening, the pub was a light at the end of a tree-lined tunnel through the Abbey Orchard, and already busy with diners despite the early hour.
Booking during the colder months of the year is essential, even outside the weekend, especially if you want to guarantee your seat, as the limited number of tables in the bar area fill up early, especially if there’s an event on later like a quiz or live music.
The Fighting Cocks has always been a dog-lovers pub, attracting walkers wandering back from Verulamium Park and grabbing a stop-off pint with the pooch. Tonight was no exception, with plenty of friendly canines to entertain our six-year-old daughter, who can’t go anywhere without asking to stroke the dogs she encounters (and yes, we have one at home as well). It adds to the ambiance, you might say, having hounds curled up at their owner’s feet, reflecting the days when they would have been working dogs instead of family pets.
The dark woods and low lighting give a cosy ambiance to the bar, in contrast to the more open restaurant area which is regularly heaving with diners come the weekend, and we took refuge next to the fire and soon shrugged off our coats as the warmth began to take effect.
The menu is simple yet satisfying, with a choice of dishes that does not overwhelm but instead plays to the chef’s strengths, offering freshly prepared food sourced wherever possible from local suppliers.
The special for the day was 8oz dry-aged Dedham Vale sirloin, served with cream potato, mushroom and roasted onion, in a red wine jus, which sounded amazing, and represents the high standard of one-off dishes coming out of the kitchen.
But in order to showcase the regular offerings, we picked a selection from the recently relaunched main menu, not quite anticipating just how generous the portion sizes were going to be.
The current seasonal smorgasbord includes fresh beer battered pollock, wild boar apple sausage and mash, penne of tomatoes, Thai yellow vegetable curry and 8oz aged Dingle Dell pork cutlet, so there’s a decent choice of mains available.
My partner and daughter decided to share some lemon and paprika whitebait and halloumi from the small plates and sharers selection, accompanied by two bowls of fries.
I opted for the 7oz steak burger, which came with smoked bacon, harissa mayonnaise, coleslaw and fries – although I didn’t have the cheddar which usually accompanies it, having a long-standing aversion to that particular blend of cheese.
It was one of those burgers which cements itself in the memory just as it takes up residence in your belly. A moist and well-seasoned patty, with a touch of chargrill in the flavouring, complemented by the crispness of the bacon, the tang of pickles and the richness of the coleslaw. Somewhat understated on the menu, it really deserves celebrating for its place among the great pub burgers of St Albans.
The fish was succulent and moreish, lacking the grease you sometimes find with whitebait, while the chunks of halloumi had a crispy coating around what can best be described as proper squeaky cheese, being neither dry or soggy but with a perfect consistency.
In fact, not only did our daughter want the recipe for mummy to cook at home, but she said it tasted better than her previous favourite at The Peahen, so let the halloumi wars commence!
There were probably more fries than it was humanly possible to consume in one sitting, so two bowls were definitely a case of over-ordering, but they certainly gave it a good effort. When you get any sort of deep-fried potato – chip or fry – it’s crucial the crunchy outside gives way to a fluffy interior, and these certainly didn’t disappoint, with an additional seasoning that didn’t overpower but instead lifted the overall flavour sensation.
Unfortunately the more than generous portions prevented us from dipping into the dessert menu, worried it would send us spiralling into food comas from which we would not wake until the spring. However, it came close, especially as the choices included homemade sticky toffee pudding. Maybe next time…
Of course, any dining experience relies heavily on the service, and in our case it was exceptional. Our server Joe-Joe was attentive yet informal, and checked back just regularly enough to ensure we had fresh drinks or any other requirements, which suggests he was keeping a close eye on our table throughout the meal.
Although we’re starting to see the first signs of spring, there are still plenty of chilly winter nights to while away at the Fighters before the pub opens up outdoors and becomes a completely different sort of venue, so why not book yourself a spot by the fire and settle in for the evening?
