20 Dec 2025
Wheathampstead’s popular country pub recently reopened after a major refurb – Matt Adams checks it out…
Entering recently refurbished country pub The Wicked Lady is like receiving a big Christmas hug from your favourite aunt. A blazing fire, twinkly tree, and cosy décor which just entices you to while away a winter’s afternoon until you suddenly realise it’s coming up for closing time…
In fact, the only thing which stands in the way of spending far too long at the Wheathampstead hostelry is the fact that it’s really only accessible by road, unless you’re foolhardy enough to risk your chances walking along a verge on the race track that is the B651.
So book yourself a taxi, or find a designated driver, and head on out to Nomansland Common, once said to be the haunt of the notorious highwaywoman Lady Kathleen Ferrers, who inspired the 1945 and 1983 movies which gave the pub its name.
Unfortunately it was a school night when we visited with our almost six-year-old daughter Connie, otherwise the temptation would have been to make the most of the fine selection of beers and wines on offer instead of driving home for bedtime shortly after eating…
The extensive refurbishment of the pub has not changed the layout, but it has given it a warmth and atmosphere which was somewhat lacking before. The colours are all decadent purples and lush oranges, with plenty of comfy cushions and other soft furnishings, low lighting, and a verdant partition of replica plants adding a perception of natural greenery to the rich opulence of the interior.
Although we were seated in the main dining room, there are lots of intimate alcoves for more private dining dotted around the pub, as well as a seating area at the well-stocked bar which wouldn’t be out of place in a swanky London hotel.
Regular visitors will recognise many of the dishes on the menu, but there are some fresh additions to celebrate the reopening.
After sorting Connie’s choices of garlic doughballs and margherita pizza to avoid any prospect of a hangry meltdown, we opted for starters of sea salt and black pepper squid with wild garlic aioli and chicken Yakiniku [Japanese for grilled meat] skewers, which came with a crunchy ginger and carrot salad, togarashi seed crumb, and a rich satay sauce.
There was none of the chewy greasiness you sometimes get with poorly cooked squid, and the ample portion provided was light and succulent with plenty of mayonnaise. The chicken was tender and packed full of exotic flavourings, offering a dish which surprised yet delighted in equal measure.
For her main, my partner had baked lemon sole from the specials menu, which was fresh and, er, lemony, and not swimming in butter like you sometimes find. In fact, it was so well cooked that arguably it could have done with a sauce on the side to enhance the simplicity of the fish, which was served with a scattering of capers, tomatoes and spring onions, and a portion of moreish crispy new potatoes.
But for me unquestionably the highlight of the whole dining experience was the British steak and Malbec pie. As someone who finds puff pastry a massive disappointment as a pie case, the shortcrust casing was just perfection, offering a thick and crunchy shell which was cracked open to reveal the molten meat interior.
Soft steak which melted in the mouth, enveloped by a rich and heady sauce which expertly complemented the rich gravy I poured with wild abandon over the accompanying sautéed green beans, Tenderstem broccoli, and chive mashed potato. Unfortunately the mash was a bit on the stodgy side, rather than the fluffy cloud you expect, so the ample gravy was a welcome addition.
Still, the pie though. What a masterpiece, and a dish I will definitely return to on future visits.
We wrapped things up with desserts of rhubarb and sour cherry crumble and custard, Sicilian lemon tart with a cherry Amaretto compote, and a chocolate brownie with Bourbon vanilla ice cream and chocolate popping candy. Of this trio, the latter was our overall winner, being a pudding which you end up finishing regardless of how much food has been consumed beforehand. No complaints about the crumble mind, although the lemon tart was a little bit too sweet for my partner’s palate, and she would have preferred an extra sharpness for contrast.
Finally, no review would be complete without a virtual round of applause for our servers, two exceptionally well-informed and customer-focused young ladies who were attentive and engaging throughout our meal.
There are plenty of exceptional country pubs scattered throughout the Hertfordshire landscape, so it takes a lot to stand out from the crowd. On the strength of this visit, The Wicked Lady is definitely worth booking that taxi for…
