Restaurant review: Sala Thai

Sala Thai

As James Cameron makes a long-awaited visit to the Thai restaurant that’s bigger on the inside than the outside… but how was his meal?

Full disclosure, I had been to the pub before my visit to Sala Thai, and was a few pints down already. To counteract this, however, I bought with me a sober companion (my 16-year-old son) to rein in the more elaborate of my drunken ramblings and ensure this review has some basis in reality.

Sala Thai sits at the end of the corridor that used to house Zaza (or Zavvi, something involving a lot of Zs that wasn’t Zizzi), which is an odd start to a dining experience. It feels slightly like walking into a non-descript office and you almost expect the server to start asking you where you see yourself in five years’ time, or what type of biscuit you would be and why (indescribably rich and a Garibaldi for me). Instead, he showed us to a table and asked us what we wanted to eat.

Once through the corridor, Sala Thai extends impressively for the length of the building, and

helpfully given the heatwave that we were enduring during our visit (which now seems like a distant memory) it was lovely and cool in the alcoves. They are hosting a Jazz Brunch on June 21, so if it does warm up again then this would be a good place to escape and be cool in all senses of the word.

We started with Prawn Crackers, of course. These were of the Thai variety, as you would expect, so were crispier and with an added layer of flavour compared to the Chinese style. They were quicker with the crackers than the drinks we ordered, though, so I ended up in the situation I hate of having salty sharing snacks without the beer that pairs so well with them.

Long-time readers will remember a similar thing happening with the poppadoms at Grand Cholas, and I whined about it then as well.

Next came the starters, and these were a real treat. Pork skewers were thick and rich, with big soy flavours and a tickly spiciness. Sesame Prawn Toast was French bread-style and not overly-fried, which meant it remained quite light and fluffy. It was served with a sweet chilli sauce that was definitely more sweet than chilli. Both starters came with attractively carved carrot flowers that gave a nice fresh crunchy interlude to bites.

After pretty rapid crackers and starters we then faced a hefty wait for our main courses, during which time my fork was taken away and not replaced, so when the food did come I had to steal one from a neighbouring (unoccupied) table.

They also still had not bought our tap water, and this is something I notice is endemic. Possibly because they do not charge for it so it doesn’t enter their systems, but it’s rare it will appear without having to chase at least a couple of times.

The main courses were worth the wait though, and continued the big bold flavours of the starters. Possibly our tastebuds needed the recovery time then.

My sober companion went for the Ginger and Onion Stir-Fried Duck. Now, I tend to avoid ordering duck as I find them very charming animals, but if someone else has gone for it and the damage has been done then I am very happy to have a taste. In this case the quackrifice was not in vain as it tasted fantastic, as all things with ginger do.

I had the Fish Penang Curry, which was my definite highlight of the meal. It hit the absolute sweet spot for spice level, with a creaminess that was broadened out by the funky undertones of fish sauce. The fish itself was battered, giving proceedings a hint of crispy seaside fish and chips.

We shared some cashew rice which was similarly fantastic, soaking up the sauces whilst maintaining its own intrinsic nutty flavour.

There were some very tempting desserts, however we had another long wait to even order them and possibly due to the beer consumed my patience was wearing a little thin by this point so we got some ice creams on our walk home instead. This had the benefit of being both cheap and delicious, though I am left wondering about the Thai crepes. Possibly this is how they get you on the hook so you have to return.

Some small issues with service, then, but possibly the staff were distracted by the Champions League final that night. Most importantly, though, the food was superb. Rich and dynamic flavours, with that amazing fish and lime combination that you don’t get in other cuisines. Even better after a few pints, as long as you can find a companion willing to put up with your meandering conversational digressions.



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