24 Nov 2024
Is this Chiswell Green’s best kept secret? James Cameron finds out more…
Gracey’s is the very definition of a neighbourhood joint. First of all, it’s in a neighbourhood. In this case the neighbourhood is Chiswell Green, where you would normally expect to find a smattering of takeaways in the parade catering to local diners only. Gracey’s doesn’t even make it into the main parade, being a little further down the road next to the Post Office. If you didn’t know where you were going, you would probably think you’d missed it.
It’s also not a big place, there are five tables inside and probably as many outside if you’re willing to brave the cold. The whole thing has nice neighbourhood café vibes, with moulded metal chairs and uncovered tables. In fact, the tables are so small that if you were to order two of their (very) large pizzas they have to implement a double decker system to accommodate them both. Clearly they have Emmett on the payroll. There are some lovely touches, such as the odd mushroom shaped lamps and the Analuscian-style tiles on the floor, but you’re never going to mistake this for the Ritz (mainly because you’re unlikely to stumble across the Ritz in Chiswell Green).
Be it ever so humble, though, Gracey’s is getting an awful lot of buzz. It’s probably the restaurant in St Albans that I’ve had the most conversations about in the last year, and people from as far afield as Hemel have expressed an interest.
I am here today to try their latest endeavour, a collaboration with the masters of Mexican food down at The Boot, and I actually first heard about it in the Waitrose Weekend newspaper. If that’s not making it, I don’t know what is.
In these cases there is always a worry that the reality cannot live up to the hype, but in reality Gracey’s make mighty fine pizzas.
They absolutely nail the important things, so the base is thin and crispy and charred to just the right level, topped with a sweet and juicy tomato sauce.
Gracey’s specialise in New Haven pizza, something I have never experienced before but now has inspired in me a deep desire to go on a pilgrimage to Connecticut.
New Haven pizzas are characterised by a chewy texture and limited use of melting cheese, and they really are a revelation.
The limited edition Boot Special was definitely special. It hits exactly the right notes of spice and citrus, just like the wonderful Birria Tacos at The Boot.
The interplay between the creamy feta and vinegary salsa verde is a delight. You even get a lime to squeeze over the top, but better still it comes with its own crust dip, a peppery sesame affair that was rich and smokey, and was probably my favourite flavour of the visit.
Beyond the collaboration there is a good range of toppings on offer. Last time I went for the Apizza, a remarkably tasty affair considering there wasn’t much on it beyond Pecorino and Aged Mozerella. This time we went a bit more traditional with the ‘Smoky Ron’, the Ron in this case being neither Corbett nor Barker but Pepperoni. It was indeed Smoky, and the fat of the meat worked well with the tangy cheese mix.
Regarding Vegan options, it is really just option, the suitably named ‘Plain Tom’. This is pretty much just the base and the tomato sauce, but as these are so good you can forgive it a lot.
You can also seek out ingredients from elsewhere on the menu, in our case some good creamy aubergine. It’s probably worth managing your expectations, though, as cheese is fairly integral to the experience.
There was one mis-step on our visit, though I largely blame that on my son. He decided to order the Burrata, but when it came it literally was just a bowl of cheese. I’m not entirely sure what he was expecting, but we also weren’t entirely sure of what to do with it when it came. We ate a bit, dipped our crusts in it a bit, but then left it to its own devices.
In keeping with the low-key vibe of the place, drinks are self-service from the fridge which can be awkward if you don’t carry around your own bottle-opener. They do have a good selection of beers, though, plus some interesting Italian drinks including Chonotto, an orange drink reminiscent of Grandpa’s marmalade (though not Granny’s, I have been asked to clarify).
It is important to manage your expectations for a visit to Gracey’s, this is a place to pop in and grab a quick bite to eat from lovely friendly staff rather than somewhere where your every need will be gratified in an atmosphere of decadent opulence. You’ll hear most of your fellow diners’ conversations, and as the door doesn’t always shut properly you might be keeping your coat on for the meal. What you will get, though, is absolutely magnificent pizza in a welcoming and lively place that seems to have got lost somewhere across the Atlantic. This is enough for the many people coming in looking for tables or collecting their slices of deliciousness and it’s certainly enough for me.
Here’s hoping that this spirit of collaboration spreads across the St Albans culinary scene as well. I would love to see Chicken George coming together with Brad & Dills for a Buffalo Chicken Bagel, Omboo working with the Camp Fish Shop on Wagyu and Chips or Vourla, Al Farid, Casbah, Ayo’s, Aspava, Tabure, Saute and Bar Mezé combining to make the world’s largest Baba Ganoush.
