28 Feb 2024
This week Penny Edwards and her wonderful team at Cellar Door Wines have me exploring the diversity of Madeira.
Madeira wine hails from the Portuguese Madeira Islands, situated in the North Atlantic Ocean, about 500 km (300 miles) west of Morocco’s coastline. These islands have a rich winemaking history dating back to the Age of Exploration when Madeira served as a crucial port of call for ships voyaging to the New World and the East Indies. The unique climate, diverse bioclimates, and volcanic soil contribute to the distinctiveness of Madeira wine. Most vineyards are concentrated along the southern and eastern coasts of the island, where steep sun-facing slopes provide optimal exposure to sunlight.
How is Madeira wine made?
Madeira wine follows a unique production process that sets it apart from other fortified wines. The vines are grown on low trellises called “latade,” which raise the grapes above the ground. This approach minimizes fungal disease due to heavy rainfall and humidity. Vineyards are often placed on steep sun-facing slopes to optimize exposure. Different grape varieties are macerated and fermented, with variations based on the grape type.
For instance, the driest white variety, Sercial, and red grapes like Tinta Negra and Complexa are fermented without the skins to produce a light wine.
Madeira’s distinctive flavour comes from its aging process, known as ‘estufagem’. The wine is heated and oxidized, mimicking the effects of long sea voyages. This imparts Flavors of caramel, nuts, and dried fruits. The result is a wine that ages gracefully and is virtually indestructible.
Types of Madeira
Madeira wine is typically mono-varietal, with each white varietal representing one of the four styles: dry, medium-dry, medium-rich, and rich. Historically, Madeira wines were divided into two categories: generic blends and single-grape varieties (Colheita or Vintage) but today we see:
Madeira Types by Age: 3, 5, 10, and 15-Year-Old: These age-labelled Madeiras are the workhorses of the wine world. The number on the label signifies the age of the youngest component in the blend. Crafted primarily using the estufa system, they offer a delightful spectrum of flavours. If the wine hails from one of the classic grape varieties – Sercial, Verdelho, Terrantez, or Bual – it proudly declares it on the label. Otherwise, expect a blend centred around the widely grown red Tinta Negra grape, with sweetness levels clearly indicated.
Single Harvest: A Vintage Gem
Introduced by The Madeira Wine Company, “single harvest” wines are treasures from a specific vintage. These gems spend five to 10 years maturing in casks within the Canteiro system. While they cannot bear the “vintage” label due to their shorter aging period, their quality is undeniable.
Colheita: The Art of Balance: Colheita wines are single-vintage expressions that mature for approximately 12 to 18 years in Canteiro casks. Bottled as a standalone vintage, these wines strike a harmonious balance. The blender carefully additional aging—up to a minimum of 20 years—wouldn’t significantly enhance their already impressive profile.
Vintage: The Pinnacle of Madeira:
Vintage Madeiras represent the zenith of craftsmanship. These singular wines age for at least 20 years, often far longer—up to 40 years or beyond—in the Canteiro system. Their rarity adds to their allure. When finally uncorked, they reveal a symphony of flavours: nuttiness, caramel, toffee, marmalade, and raisins. Yet, their bright, crisp acidity ensures they never become cloying. These bottles are not just wines; they’re time capsules, preserving freshness and appeal for generations.
Look out for the name of the grape variety on the label of your bottle of Madeira.
Most labels list the grape used, and if one is mentioned then the contents have to contain at least 85% of this variety.
Blandy’s Madeira: A Legacy of Excellence
The best way of introducing yourself to Madeira, is the Blandy’s 5-Year-Old Madeira Tasting Pack (£11.95 from Cellar Door Wines), featuring four distinct styles. Blandy’s stands out as one of the most renowned producers on the island.
Founded by John Blandy in 1811, it remains a family-owned business with over two centuries of fine wine production. Blandy’s Wine Lodge, located in the heart of Funchal, ages the finest Madeira wines using the traditional canteiro method. Each room in the Lodge offers unique aging conditions, resulting in diverse wine profiles.
Blandy’s 5-Year-Old Sercial:
A white grape usually grown in the coolest vineyards at heights of up to 1,000 metres on the north side of the Island. It is the same grape as the ‘esgana cao’ (literally translated as dog strangler) which is grown on the Portuguese mainland. Due to the height at which it is grown, sercial ripens with difficulty and makes a dry and acidic wine.
Fresh and dry, it reveals delightful flavours of citrus, wood, and dried fruit. The finish is both nutty and refreshing. Enjoy it as an aperitif with olives, or perhaps smoked salmon or Indian cuisine.
Blandy’s 5-Year-Old Verdelho
A white grape also predominately planted on the cooler north side of the island, tends to produce a medium-dry to medium-sweet wine, perhaps with a slight caramel tinge. More mellow than sercial, it retains the acidity.
A medium-dry wine with a complex nose of raisins, dried fruits, wood, and spices. Ideal as an aperitif but pairs beautifully with soups, ham, and pâtés.
Blandy’s 5-Year-Old Bual
A white grape grown in warmer locations on the south coast of the island, it reaches higher sugar levels than both sercial and verdelho. Produces a dark, medium-rich raisin and caramel wine which again retains its acidity.
The aromas include dried fruit, vanilla, wood, and toffee. It strikes a balance between medium sweetness and acidity, leaving a smooth finish. Perfect as an after-dinner drink, served at room temperature it pairs well with fruit, milk chocolate, fruit cakes, or hard cheeses.
Blandy’s 5-Year-Old Malmsey
A white grape produced mainly in the warmer locations on the south of the island around Camara de Lobos to the west of Funchal. Produces a richly sweet wine that avoids being cloying due to maintaining the high level of acidity found in all Madeira wines. Serve at room temperature with rich fruit cake, chocolate, or coffee desserts.
On the nose its full of dried fruit, vanilla, wood, and toffee. It offers a rich, sweet finish with excellent fruit-acidity balance. Perfectly suited to desserts—especially fruit, cakes, rich chocolate puddings, and cheeses.
In summary, Madeira wine is a testament to centuries of craftsmanship, unique aging techniques, and the passion of dedicated winemakers. Cellar Door Wines offer a broader range of Madeira wines, including some wonderful 10-year classics, so don’t delay, pop in today!
