19 Dec 2023
Darren McCabe whittles down his top choice for festive fizz…
During the last few months, I’ve been attending a whole host of Champagne and sparkling wine tasting events. From the press events hosted by the likes of M&S, Laithwaites and Waitrose, to intimate tastings with Champagne Palmer, through to PR samples being tasted at home, I’m now ready to share my top festive fizz recommendations and I guarantee there’s something here for all tastes and budgets. As well as the classic Champagnes from some of the oldest Champagne houses, I’ve also included some alternatives to Champagne which also keep the price down too without compromising on quality.
Before we get into the wines, I thought I’d share some background information for those less familiar with fizz, in the hope that will help you decipher the key terms on the wine labels.
First up, Champagne can only come from Champagne and is produced using the classic grape varieties of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier (Champagne’s classic blend).
It’s produced using the ‘Traditional method’, and in super simple terms this means the grapes are pressed, they ferment to produce a still wine (no bubbles), yeast and sugar are
then added, and a second fermentation takes place in bottle (creating the bubbles), dead yeast cells in the bottle (lees) add flavour and texture. It’s more technical than that but I think that will do for today. So, when looking at other sparkling wines which are not Champagne, look out for the classic grape varieties and the ‘traditional method’ – it’s the
closest you’ll get to Champagne.
Again, keeping it very simple, here are some other terms you need to know:
- NV / Non-Vintage – made from grapes harvested in more than one vintage, lighter in body, more fresh fruit flavours, aged for a minimum 15 months and produces a “House Style”.
- Blanc de Blancs – A white sparkling made only from white grape varieties.
- Blanc de Noirs – A white sparkling wine made only from black varieties.
- Vintage – The wine must come from a single year, aged a minimum 36 months. Only made in the very best years and therefore commands a premium.
- Rosé – Made by either blending red and white base wines, or by short maceration (leaving skins on red grapes to extract the colour pigment).
Now onto my top recommendations…
Graham Beck Brut Rosé NV (Majestic Wine £18.99 Mix 6)
This is one of my non-Champagne favourites and is made from 100% Pinot Noir grapes.
They’ve produced excellent bubbles since the 1980s, using the second fermentation ‘traditional method’ – known here as Méthode Cap Classique in South Africa. The quality:price ratio is insane. It has a pale salmon colour with a fine mousse and a complex aroma of raspberry, cherry, rose, biscuit, and honey. The taste is dry, with a creamy texture and a refreshing finish. It’s a lovely wine for celebrations and pairs well with smoked salmon, cheese, or fruit tarts.
Gosset Petite Douceur Rosé Extra Dry Champagne (Waitrose Cellar £59.99)
This is a charming rosé Champagne from Gosset, the oldest wine house in Champagne. It’s a blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes, with a touch of red wine added for colour and flavour. It has a salmon-pink colour with fine bubbles and a complex aroma of strawberry,
raspberry, grapefruit, lemon, biscuit, and caramel. The taste is off-dry, with a well-balanced acidity and a long, harmonious finish. It’s a lovely Champagne for celebrations and pairs well with crêpes Suzette, orange blossom cake or pear tart.
Mar de Frades Brut Nature NV (Great Wine Co. £26.55 on Multibuy/£29.50 single bottle)
Paula Fandino has made it her mission to explore as deeply as she can the viticultural and vinification possibilities found in her home of Galicia. In the winery today, she experiments with lees-ageing, fermentation in oak and granite and single vineyard bottlings… but one of her initial innovations was the Mar de Frades Brut Nature NV – the first traditional method, sparkling Albariño from the Rias Baixas DO. This is a rare and intriguing sparkling made from Albariño grapes.
It has a pale-yellow colour with green hues and fine bubbles. The aroma is a mix of fresh citrus, apple, white flowers and yeast. The taste is dry, with a well-balanced acidity and a long, refreshing finish. It goes well with shellfish, fish, and cheese.
Jansz Premium Cuvée NV (Waitrose £14.49, down from £18.49)
This is a superb sparkling wine from Tasmania, Australia, made from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes. It has a pale gold colour with a fine bead and persistent mousse. The bouquet shows complex aromas of croissant, butter, caramel, cashew nuts and lemon peel. The palate is powerful and elegant, with a creamy texture and a crisp finish. It’s ideal for special occasions and pairs well with smoked salmon, caviar, and oysters.
M&S Found Range ASTI Secco (Marks and Spencer £10)
This is a delightful sparkling wine from Piedmont, Italy, made from Moscato grapes. It has a low alcohol level (11%) and a medium-sweet taste. It has grapey aromas with floral, peach, lychee, sage, and passion fruit notes. It’s light, fizzy and refreshing on the palate, with a hint of bitterness. It’s a great choice for dessert lovers and goes well with strawberries and cream, fruit pudding or orange blossom cake.
M&S English Sparkling Hattingley (Marks and Spencer £30)
This is a fine example of English sparkling wine, made by Hattingley Valley in Hampshire, using the same grape varieties and production method as Champagne – Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier grapes. It has a delicate mousse and notes of brioche, red apple, citrus, and caramel. It’s a perfect aperitif or a match for seafood, salads, and fruit desserts.
Champagne Palmer Brut Reserve
The Finest Bubble and independent merchants like ND John Wine (£34)
I had the absolute pleasure of tasting this a few weeks ago, at Odette’s restaurant in London with Raymond Ringeval, Champagne Palmer’s commercial director. This is a classic
Champagne from one of the oldest houses in the region, founded in 1947. It’s a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier grapes from the best estates in the Montagne de Reims area. It has a rich and wide aromatic palate of white fruits, pear, baked apple, apricot, honey, hazelnuts, and brioche. The palate is well balanced, with a fine mousse, a creamy character, and a fresh finish. It’s a versatile Champagne that can be enjoyed on its own or with a variety of dishes, from seafood to cheese.
Ayala Brut Majeur NV (Waitrose £29.99, down from £34.99)
This is my go-to fizz, a refined and elegant Champagne from Ayala, a sister house of Bollinger. It’s a blend of 40% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir and 20% Pinot Meunier grapes
from the best vineyards in Champagne. It has a pale gold colour with a fine mousse and a delicate nose of honeysuckle, citrus, nougat, and roasted nuts. The palate is dry, with a smooth texture and a crisp finish. It’s a perfect apéritif or a match for sushi, sashimi, or scallops.
M&S Collection St. Gall Champagne 1er Cru Brut (Marks and Spencer £28)
This is an exclusive Champagne for Marks & Spencer, made by De Saint Gall, a cooperative of growers from the Grand Cru villages of the Côte des Blancs. It’s a 100% Chardonnay wine, with a pale gold colour and a fine delicate nose. It’s beautifully smooth on the palate, with pure fruit and an intense complex flavour. It’s a sophisticated Champagne that can be enjoyed with caviar, lobster, or foie gras.
