07 Aug 2023
As I write this article I’m sitting at the dining table in a beautiful barn conversion in Devon, listening to the rain hammering off the windows, wishing we’d gone to Spain or somewhere warm and sunny for our summer holidays.
Every cloud has a silver lining and this one has Sharpham wines situated 45 minutes from our holiday home, so I’ll be heading there tomorrow to sample their delightful, award-winning wines.
For now, I’m going to dream of Spain as I indulge in two of its famous grapes garnacha and tempranillo.
The story of Garnacha (Grenache) and Tempranillo in Spain is one of contrasting fortunes.
While Garnacha has experienced a significant decline in cultivation, losing its status as the top Spanish red grape, Tempranillo has seen explosive growth and popularity.
Despite the decline in cultivation, garnacha has shown remarkable resilience and is now playing a crucial role in producing exciting red wines that have earned their place among Spain’s top labels.
The main styles of garnacha in Spain are found in Catalonia, with highly Mediterranean wines, in regions like Rioja, Navarra, and Aragón, where altitude and soils greatly influence quality and character, and in Gredos, which boasts a unique and captivating character.
Grenache, known by its French name due to its origins in France, has a complex history in Spain, with debates over its origin and the term used to refer to it.
While it spread rapidly in the 19th century, it was often used in blends, rosés, and bulk wines, leading to its eventual decline as other high-profile and fashionable grape varieties took precedence.
Tempranillo’s success in Ribera del Duero and Rioja led to its widespread expansion, further displacing Grenache in many regions.
However, garnacha’s decline has not spelled its extinction. Instead, it has become a valuable and sought-after grape variety in the production of exciting Spanish red wines.
First up is Pagos del Rey ‘409’ Ribera del Duero 2020/21 (£11.99 from Majestic Wine).
Pagos del Rey is a winery established in 2002 with a singular mission: crafting exceptional wines in Spain’s most esteemed winemaking regions. Their triumph is beautifully showcased in this opulent Ribera del Duero, a testament to their unwavering commitment to quality. Blending both old and young-vine Tempranillo grapes, each parcel is
fermented separately to preserve their distinct personalities. The young vines impart bright fruit and delicate floral aromas, while the old-vine section contributes firm tannins and luscious ripe fruit nuances.
This wine undergoes a meticulous aging process, spending an impressive 409 days in oak barrels—hence its fitting name—followed by several months of refinement in the bottle. This painstaking attention to detail has earned it resounding acclaim, receiving an impressive 92 points from the esteemed critic James Suckling for its outstanding 2020 vintage.
As you savour this remarkable wine, you’ll be greeted by a symphony of juicy dark-fruit flavours harmoniously intertwined with intricate notes of toasted spices, dark chocolate, walnut, and a whisper of tobacco.
Its velvety, supple tannins and enduring, savoury finish make it an ideal companion for indulging in succulent red meats, such as a delectable roast lamb or a peppery beef dish. Alternatively, for those with a touch of patience, this wine rewards cellaring for up to five years, evolving and maturing into an even more sublime experience. Pagos del Rey unite tradition and innovation in every sip, offering a remarkable expression of the Ribera del Duero terroir.
Next up is one of my favourite wines from Majestic, La Garnatxa Fosca 2020/21 Proyecto Garnachas de España, Priorat (£15.99 from Majestic Wines).
This wine takes you on a journey of preservation and revival, a visionary endeavour led by Raul Acha to safeguard Spain’s ancient Garnacha vines.
This remarkable red wine is the exquisite result of vines over 60 years old, lovingly nurtured in the illustrious terroir of Priorat, renowned for its slate-rich soils.
The marriage of venerable vines and slate-infused earth gives birth to a wine adorned with captivating complexity, boasting enticing notes of dark cherry, cedar, aromatic herbs, and a hint of ‘crushed rock’ minerality.
La Garnatxa Fosca del Priorat, a true gem from Priorat, stands as a testament to the Grenache Project for Spain—a pivotal initiative within the esteemed Vintae Group, wholly devoted to showcasing the excellence of this varietal Grenache.
The hallowed vineyards, perched on slopes and slate terraces in the scenic heights of El Molar, Tarragona, bask at altitudes between 300 and 400 meters above sea level.
The labour of love begins with a meticulous, manual harvest taking place between the end of September and the beginning of October.
Once the precious grapes are gathered, they embark on their transformational journey, maturing gracefully in French oak barrels for a splendid period of 10 months.
The vision of Proyecto Garnachas de España is to elevate Grenache from the shadows, granting it the rightful place it deserves. As you savour the La Garnatxa Fosca del Priorat, you become part of this noble quest, celebrating a resplendent red that embodies the soul of Priorat and the resurgent spirit of Spain’s cherished Grenache heritage.
And when it comes to pairing this wine, you are spoilt for choice, mature cheeses, mushroom risotto, fille steak or dry cured meats – take your pick.
That’s it for this week but look out for my next edition where I’ll be bringing you a wine that’s much closer to home.
If you are a wine retailer or an events company who would like me to feature your of range wines,
then please contact me via mccabetwe@gmail.com or @mccabe_thewineenthusiast
