07 Nov 2025
Can the city’s newest restaurant live up to the hype? Ask Matt Adams…
You wait months for a new restaurant to open in St Albans, and then two of them come along in a matter of weeks. Shortly after the remarkably successful launch of the new Pho eatery in Christopher Place Shopping Centre, it’s the turn of its neighbour, the city’s first Cosy Club.
The former French Connection store and snooker club has been completely transformed in what has been the biggest redevelopment of the centre since it first opened its doors in the 1980s, providing a massive space for a properly glamorous offering.
Featuring disco balls, fish tanks, bespoke patterned fabrics, carpets, mirrors and wallpapers, dramatic statement lighting, and sumptuous soft furnishings, there’s really nothing quite like it anywhere else in the city centre.
Being unable to make last week’s VIP night due to holiday commitments was probably a good thing, as it meant I was able to go along on a typical Wednesday evening to experience the restaurant as it should be, free of pressure and pretension, just doing what it does well.
In the company of fellow Fleetville school dad Chris, we settled down to explore the menu over a couple of pints… There’s a pretty decent selection of draught options available, including the likes of Hawkstone Session Lager and Brixton Reliance Pale Ale, but it’s the cocktails where the Cosy Club excels.
Although we stuck to the beers for the night, a previous pre-opening visit to meet the team gave me an unexpected opportunity to sample not one, but two of the house cocktails. The first was a Tiramisu Martini, which blended vanilla vodka, Kahlúa, Baileys and milk chocolate to mimic the classic Italian dessert, but because they had yet to receive stock of ladyfinger biscuits – the special accompaniment to the drink – the manager insisted I have something else as well…
So in the middle of a Friday afternoon I quaffed both the martini and a classic margarita made with El Jimador Tequila, Cointreau and freshly squeezed lime juice, which certainly wasn’t the end to my week I’d expected, but no less pleasant as a result. Both were exceptionally crafted, and served to reawaken my somewhat dangerous predilection for quality cocktails…
Anyway, I’d better get back to Chris before he wonders why I’ve disappeared on some sort of meandering aside, and turn our attention back to the food on offer that evening, which included an exciting mix of small plates recommended for sharing as a starter.
We opted for Asian Buttermilk Fried Chicken, which came with a sticky soy, ginger, sesame and chilli glaze, Pulled Beef and Smoked Bacon Croquettes with black garlic aioli and crispy leeks, and Halloumi & Hot Honey served with a mizuna (a Japanese leaf which tastes like a cross between mustard greens and arugula) and picked onion salad.
If there was an opening act worthy of applause, it was this trio of tantalising taste triumphs. You could arguably just fill up on a selection of small plate choices and wouldn’t be in any way disappointed, as these were exceptional in their presentation, texture and flavours. Whether it was packing a punch with the hot honey, the croquettes melting in your mouth, or the extravagance of the crunchy chicken combo, these dishes were firing on all cylinders.
With a choice of 10 different options to mix it up with, this approach offers diners the chance to enjoy a variety of little snacks with a fascinating fusion of flavours, and Chris and I are both already planning what to sample on our next visit.
Meanwhile, rather than overwhelm the customer with a second barrage of dishes to choose from, there is a somewhat restricted selection of mains available, with the focus obviously on top-level steaks and burgers.
Options included the likes of King Prawn & Cod Linguine, Chestnut Mushroom, Tomato and Spinach Curry, Panko-Crusted Cod and Chips, and a Warm Salad of Harissa & Maple Roasted Carrots, but who were we trying to kid? We wanted burgers…
Getting a burger right is an art form. How often have you been served something which is just too overwhelmed with fillings that you would have to defy laws of physics to render it eatable, where the bun is soggy and decomposing because of an abundance of sauces, or where the patty itself needs more seasoning and grill-time?
Thankfully none of those shortcomings applied to our Cosy Club fare.
Chris went for the Cosy Smash Burger, a double beef rib loaded with Cheddar, pickles, house bacon jam, caramelised onions and gravy mayo, served – much to my acute jealousy – with dipping gravy. Almost any savoury dish is elevated to new heights by the inclusion of dipping gravy, it’s an actual fact.
Fortunately, I wasn’t disappointed by my choice of the Cosy House Burger, a beef rib patty, pickles, house bacon jam and mizuna. OK there wasn’t any gravy, but for once I could overlook that if only because the combination of the other ingredients was just so sublime.
But the bacon jam was the unquestionable king of the plate, offering a sweet and salty dollop of perfection into the heart of the burger, which perfectly complemented the tanginess of the pickles. Top work Cosy chefs.
Had we not stuffed our faces with so many starters, then two burgers and a heap of fries, perhaps we might have ventured onto the dessert menu, if only to explore the delights of the Brúléed Miso Caramel Custard Tart, which came with vanilla pod ice cream and shortbread crumb.
Other offerings included a Rich Chocolate Delice, a classic Rhubarb and Bramley Apple Crumble, and a Lemon and Raspberry Parfait. Next time…
So we weren’t disappointed with the food or the drinks, but how did the rest of the venue measure up to scrutiny?
Despite an early evening mid-week booking, the restaurant was hopping and buzzing, with a great atmosphere which allowed for lively parties or intimate couples, utilising a clever layout that took full advantage of the copious amount of space.
Service was simply faultless. Our host Justine was charming, attentive and informed, and a true credit to the intensive training regime imposed by general manager Deborah Benelli. If the restaurant can continue such exceptional standards going forwards, then that would be a spectacular achievement. It’s easy to hit the high notes in your opening week, but trying to maintain an aria months down the line is much harder to achieve.
The front of the Club is noticeably distinct from the restaurant, and caters for guests who might just want a drink, offering a sophisticated cocktail bar vibe which echoes upmarket London establishments in its approach. Well worth checking out if you’re looking for somewhere different to enjoy a night out with friends.
By all accounts, it’s been a two-year process to bring Cosy Club to Christopher Place, and judging from our experiences last week, it was worth every second.
Cosy Club Christmas Community Champion
Do you know someone remarkable? Someone who goes above and beyond for their community, and deserves to be celebrated and spoiled at Cosy Club this Christmas?
As Cosy Club unwraps this year’s festive menu – featuring honest, dishes that feel special without being fussy – Cosy Club St Albans is searching for a Cosy Club Christmas Community Champion. The winner will be treated to a one-of-a-kind Christmas feast for four, with dishes that capture the spirit of the season: think sticky Asian fried chicken with a soy and ginger glaze to start, our indulgent Christmas pie served with all the trimmings, and decadent puddings like a rich chocolate mousse or a classic Christmas pudding with warm brandy custard to finish.
To nominate a Cosy Club Christmas Community Champion simply head to St Albans Cosy Club’s IG page and submit an entry of up to 200 words explaining why the nominee is so extraordinary, what they do for the community, and why they deserve a festive treat.
