16 Sep 2025
James Cameron risks the meat sweats with a visit to the carnivore’s favourite…
The art of the BBQ, which is elevated to something close to religion in the South Western United States, is rather less celebrated in this country. Possibly due to the scarcity of days where cooking outside is an attractive opportunity, meaning very few people develop the experience needed, it is largely associated with simultaneously charred and under-cooked sausages and the inevitable intestinal discomfort that follows.
There were a few brave souls that flew the BBQ flag in this country, though. I fondly remember my first visit to Bodean’s when it was just a basement in Soho, before it proliferated into a chain, and being introduced to the wonder that was both Pulled Pork and Burnt Ends (and finding the names very amusing). Also in Soho – there must be something in the area that attracts people who like smoking and meat – was the now departed Pitt Cue Company, where I had my first experience of a Pickleback (a shot of bourbon followed by a shot of pickle brine).
All of these items are on offer at Craft & Cleaver, which has been serving authentically amazing slow cooked meat on Catherine Street for over 10 years now.
It can be easy to overlook places that have been consistently good for so long, especially when restaurant turnover is so high and there’s always something new and shiny to distract you. Let’s rectify this and give a shout out to what is now a stalwart of the St Albans scene (and Hitchin too, I guess).
Decor in the Craft & Cleaver is very appealing, a mixture of dark wood and neon that brings to mind American dive bars. It was very lively on a Thursday night when we visited, possibly too lively. It’s hard to tell, though, whether I felt this due to the impact the noise from the table next to us had on our conversation or just because I resented them for their youth and enthusiasm, two qualities that every day become ever more distant memories to me.
As well as an extensive cocktail menu, including both the aforementioned picklebacks and an intriguing sounding Peanut Butter Tequila shot, they have a wide range of beers on tap.
Presumably this is covered by the ‘Craft’ section of their name, and they have brews from Brooklyn Beer and Mad Squirrel, as well as a very potent beer from Stonewall that they rightly refused to sell me in any quantity greater than two-thirds of a pint. They were happy for us to try a few before settling on our chosen drink, which given the range on offer was invaluable.
In an example of going above and beyond they also allowed my companion to try a padron pepper before ordering them to see if they came in under her (very low) spice threshold. They passed the test, and what’s more she proclaimed them the best padron peppers she has had, which given their ubiquity at the moment is quite a triumph. They had a sweet and salty coating that gave them a really interesting texture.
For my starter I went for a Brisket Cheesesteak Cigar, meat and cheese wrapped in what they refer to as an egg roll but what we would call on this side of the Atlantic a spring roll. This was surprisingly reminiscent of a roast dinner with a very beefy flavour, although the cheese was less apparent. It was served with a nice calming green sauce and some truly exceptional pickles.
Moving on to the mains I returned to my old friends the Pulled Pork and Burnt Ends as part of their combo plate, which also came with two sides and a sauce. It’s a great way to experience the range of their offerings.
Both meats were expertly cooked, with a flavour that was rich and permeated deeply, and they were both so soft I could have sucked them up like meat lollipops.
Unexpectedly, though, I think I enjoyed the sides just as much, if not more. There was a powerful blue cheese ranch sauce which elevated everything it touched to the flavour stratosphere like a culinary Shazam. Memphis Pit Beans were a revelation, aping the richness of the meat but with a maple sweetness. These balanced well with the lime slaw which brought a citrussy freshness to the party.
A great vinegary hot sauce and dark and rich BBQ sauce, both home made, brought every mouthful to a culinary crescendo.
So far, so meaty, but what is there on offer for our plant-based brethren. Possibly unsurprisingly the answer is not much. Other than the previously posited padron peppers on the starter menu the only other vegan dish was a Barbecued Aubergine main, whilst those who are comfortable with cheese had the option of a Burrata starter and Mac & Cheese main.
You could argue that this is not surprising, and why would you go to a restaurant that features the word ‘Cleaver’ in its name if you object to flesh-eating.
Vegans do not exist in a vacuum, though, and where love exists across the dining divide people may wish to accompany their significant other to a place that might not be tailored to their specific requirements.
With this in mind, the aubergine was well cooked and the topping of tahini and salsa was sweet and complimented the burnt flesh offering well. It was a big aubergine, though, and it is testament to the inequity of the world that whereas too much meat is only really seen as a good thing, even the most ardent veggie would struggle to raise the same enthusiasm for a surfeit of aubergine, no matter how well prepared.
Things were saved by a spectacular side of Smokehouse Fries, cooked to perfection with a marvellous exterior that was crisp and covered in a flavourful coating that did not hold back on the salt. Service was also admirable, we were never waiting longer than was needed to get our appetite back up again, and the beer and pepper samplings speak to how well we were looked after.
One thing I feel I must speak up about, though, is the serving style.
Both my dishes were presented on metal dishes and perched on top of paper. I very much object to paper being on the food side of the plate, it has no place there and gets mushed up with the sauces and juices and ends up integrating itself into your food. Scooping up the final dregs of my dish is one of my greatest pleasures, but the paper gets there first and I ended up ingesting more of it than I’m sure is healthy.
It is also on the pricier side of local joints. It is likely on the front end of the constant runs of inflation we have had, due to the quantity of quality ingredients used, but a number of the mains were skirting the high twenties.
In fact, when we first visited Craft & Cleaver, these 10 years ago, we were able to get lunch for two plus drinks for less than my main cost this time.
Despite this I left this bastion of Hertfordshire barbequing in a fantastic mood. I was slightly tipsy from the great beers, and absolutely stuffed with amazing meat. Luckily my journey home was in a straight line and downhill so I arrived back safely and with a warm glow from being so well served by Craft & Cleaver.
https://craftcleaver.co.uk/craft-and-cleaver-st-albans/
