23 Jul 2025
James Cameron heads down to the Hatfield Road deli to check out their extensive range of cheese toasties… but will his vegan dining companion have a similar choice on offer?
There is something slightly mystical about the Fleetville Larder. I always look out for it when I’m driving along Hatfield Road, just to remind myself where it is, and I never see it.
Yet, when I set out on foot to go there it suddenly appears like a Brigadoon Deli. The simple explanation is probably that I get distracted by Cheerz Pizza and their claims about being recommended as the best pizza in town (who would make such a recommendation? I would like to meet this person and debate them vigorously), but I prefer the idea that like the A-Team it only appears to those most in need.
Anyway, there must be plenty of people in need of cheese, as the place was very lively when we visited on a Tuesday lunchtime. It is clearly a popular spot for catching up and having a cup of tea, and despite the numerous eating establishments on the Hatfield Road there aren’t actually many of this type of casual café type environment. If you’re after Peri Peri Chicken or Instagrammable burgers you’re sorted, but tea and cake less so. The Fleetville Larder, however, is a lot more than a café but also simultaneously less.
There is a wide range of produce available, but most of it is to be taken away rather than consumed on the premises. Their raison d’etre is the cheese, with an enticing international array on offer at the counter and for the true enthusiast the option to join their cheese club. I assume this comes with a piece of brie to wear on your lapel and a secret cheesy handshake to identify fellow members, but as I have not yet been invited this remains speculation.
They parlay this impressive selection into what is certainly the widest range of cheese toasties in the district. These include such international options as the ‘French Melt’, the ‘Calabrian’ and my choice, the ‘Alpine’. This featured Salami and Gherkins, with Raclette as the cheese element. Those who are already members of the cheese club will know that raclette is a method of heating and eating cheese, rather than a cheese in and of itself, but this is presumably the type of Swiss cheese designed for the purpose and therefore more than comfortable being melted down for consumption.
The sandwich itself was full of rich earthy flavours, with the tartness of the pickles integral in holding back the potentially overwhelming creaminess of the raclette. A word of warning,
though, this is quite a pungent dish (as all the best cheeses are) so if you are ordering it you may want to ensure that your companion is a turophile (or cheese fancier) or they might take offense (as mine did). Whether this would be enough to put you off ordering such a superb sandwich I leave to you and your conscience.
As my co-diner was a vegan (one of the reasons she objected to the nasal assault so much) there were less options on the table for her. As well as the toasties there are also bagels (all alas featuring cream cheese) and baguettes, but despite not quite qualifying as a millennial she went for avocado on toast.
This came served on a lovely crusty chunk of sourdough, and the avocado was as fresh and tasty as you would want but it could have done with balancing from some form of sweetness from chilli or onion jam. This was especially ironic as there was basically an entire wall of condiments not two feet away from us.
To accompany our meals they have a fridge full of interesting drinks, from which we went for a selection of Dalston’s soft drinks, a refreshing Cherryade and a lively Ginger Beer.
Crisp selection was a bit disappointing, considering the range of exotic large sharing bags they had but if you wanted an individual one you are mainly looking at Pipers. Good crisps, certainly, but not particularly exciting.
We were considering finishing with tea and cake, but from their selection of three cakes the only vegan option also contained nuts.
I understand this is a very specific requirement to our party, but it does point towards the slight issue inherent in the Fleetville Larder. There is no shortage of lovely food here, the larder is certainly not bare, but the majority of it is intended for home consumption.
Even though there is delightful food on offer, and at a very reasonable price (£22.55 for the two of us), you feel slightly short-changed given all of the things you can’t have.
If you know what you’re after though, and what you’re after is a cheese toastie, then get yourself there this instant.
