Wickham wanderers discoveries

Portuguese vineyards

Last week I had the pleasure of having dinner at restaurant Margaux (South Kensington) with Dan Farrell-Wright, founder of Wickhams Wine. Always keen to take the path slightly less travelled, Dan shared a dozen incredible wines, via a very informal, sometimes raucous self-pouring three-course meal.

One of them was a wine from Beira Atlântico and since then Dan has kindly sent a Portuguese duo for me to review.

IGP Beira Atlântico is a fascinating wine region in northern central Portugal, known for its diverse wine styles and rich history. Quinta de Foz Arouce is a notable wine estate in this region, with a rich history and unique terroir.

The estate has a long history of winemaking, linked to the legend of the Arab King Arunce who built a castle in the region. The site also has historical significance, including a Roman road and the 1811 Napoleonic Battle of Foz de Arouce.

The fourth Count of Arouce, João Filipe Osorio, oversees the estate, which has been in the family for generations and his son-in-law, top Portuguese oenologist João Portugal Ramos, has significantly contributed to the estate’s success

The vineyard primarily grows Baga, along with other traditional Portuguese varieties and production is limited to around 10,000 bottles of red and 1,500 bottles of white each year.

Quinta de Foz de Arouce White 2023 (£20.15)

Quinta de Foz de Arouce White 2023 is a remarkable wine crafted from 100% Cercial, an indigenous grape variety of this region and one I’d never heard of before now, never mind tasted it. The meticulous hand-harvested grapes are fermented in French oak barrels, with lees stirring to enhance texture and complexity. This wine is produced in the esteemed vineyards of the Count of Foz de Arouce.

“An IGP classification means he can actually have some fun and make something really special and out of the ‘ordinary’,” says Dan. “And that’s exactly what you’ve got here with a white that is all tropical fruit, pineapple and subtle coconut.”

In the glass, the complex aroma reveals enticing notes of lime and grapefruit, complemented by hints of cut grass and fennel. On the palate, it boasts a good structure with pronounced acidity. The texture is smooth, unveiling subtle vanilla and smoky undertones. The finish is long and satisfying, leaving a lasting impression.

Quinta de Foz Arouce Red 2020 (£20.15)

Quinta de Foz de Arouce Red 2020 is an exquisite blend of indigenous grapes, Baga and Touriga Nacional. The grapes are meticulously hand-harvested, and the wine is aged for six months in second-fill French barrels to enhance its complexity. This wine exudes an aromatic concentration with enticing notes of red berry fruits. On the palate, it features smooth tannins, contributing to its well-balanced profile. The finish is persistent, leaving a lasting impression.

Interested in trying these and more from the Wickham Wines founder…

“We are confident in our selections, which is why we can offer our 100% Satisfaction Guarantee,” says Dan.

“Combined with our affordable shipping anywhere in the UK (and free over £40), customers can easily try wines from our list.” And if you sign up to receive Dan’s regular recommendations for delicious, distinctive wines you’ll save 5% off your next order.



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