31 Mar 2025
James Cameron grabs a much-needed lunch at the country pub…
Rarely have we been so in need of sustenance as when we arrived at the Prae Wood Arms for lunch. We had been walking the River Ver Trail, and thanks to the usual kerfuffle that accompanies one of these walks (late setting off, unplanned digressions around motorways, slower than anticipated pace) it was half past two by the time we arrived at our planned lunch stop.
This timing did at least aid us in getting a table, as this is a popular spot whenever the sun appears. Well located to feature in numerous walking routes, or a short drive from the centre if you’re feeling lazy, it also boasts an almost embarrassingly large garden, something that becomes a rare commodity as you travel further into town.
The site itself must also explain some of the draw. Situated in the Dower House of the Gorehambury Estate (effectively the noble classes’ equivalent of a granny flat), the building is a beautiful warren of enticing nooks.
Roaring fires beckon you in from the chill outside, and the walls are jammed with pictures as if they had steadily been receiving art as a present for every Christmas and birthday from an eccentric relative who was now coming to visit.
Best of all, though, are the toilets. These are a work of beauty, spacious enough that you could do Pilates in there, and with a rug on the floor that makes it a viable prospect, not something you could say about many establishment’s facilities. Large windows complete the airy feel, and I have no hesitation in awarding the Prae Wood Arms the coveted ‘Best Toilet in St Albans’ award.
For those of you who remember the previous occupant of this space, a sub-Toby carvery that seemed almost embarrassed by the sumptuous surroundings in which they were serving up their grey, chewy meats, it still is a delight to see the potential realised. We were not just there to gawp at wall hangings, however, but to get some well earned grub.
There is a sign at the door saying that the bar is the centre of proceedings, to which one must venture for table, drinks and food. This is slightly misleading as there is also waiter service, but it is worth going along to gawp at the lovely wide range of beers on offer. There are even signs showing the Beer Miles for all the draught options, a nice touch if you like to sup locally.
Surprisingly enough the most well-traveled of the beers was the house brew, which has seemingly traversed the lengths of these islands to get here.
The menu was extensive, with multiple dietary options, and it ranged from pub standards to more exotic fayre. My attention was captured by the faggots, though, partly because they are a rare discovery these days but also because it is a funny word.
Possibly due to our hunger it did seem to take quite a while for the food to arrive, though luckily we had crisps to keep us going. Our companions received their dishes, but then me and the other faggot-orderer were presented with a small section of meat, like no faggot I have encountered and entirely lacking in any of the advertised mash. When we queried this the dishes were whisked away.
In the absence of any further information we surmised that we had accidentally been bought the crispy lamb fritter from the starter menu instead of the faggot, but this is guesswork. What is indisputable is that we then had to sit and politely watch our fellow walkers tuck into their dishes, which did not help our moods.
To make matters worse these were fine looking dishes. The Sausages, Chips and Peas came with an intricately decorated gravy boat, although the gravy inside could have been thicker.
There were the required number of sausages present (three, of course, although on our last walk we had been given two sausages each which we were not impressed with) and all of them were amazing.
The chips were a substitute for mash and were good (and easier to share with hungry companions) but a little cold.
The Steak, Bacon, Mushroom and Ale Pie was a magnificent beast, looking like the Scotch Pie of the (Scotch) Gods. The pastry (probably a hot water crust) was lovely and crisp and the interior was fully enclosed like a proper pie, but when breached it was McDonald’s Apple Pie hot.
Once again patience was needed before it was tackled.
Eventually the faggots arrived, and the tables were turned as we had to eat our food under intense scrutiny. The dish was very nice, though possibly not quite worth the wait. The faggots themselves had a nice rustic heft to them, and a spicing similar to haggis. They were quite dense, though, and the mash on the side had a blandness that called to mind school dinners.
Things go wrong all the time, but it’s how you deal with it when they do that marks out the top quality establishments.
If we had been kept informed during our faggot wait, or even better left with the erroneous starters which were probably destined for the bin, then we would have happily forgiven all.
As it was although the Prae Wood Arms is undoubtedly a step up from its carvery predecessor it does not yet feel like it reaches the heights needed for the catering operation to match the magnificence of its surroundings.
