21 Aug 2024
Pinot Noir is a black wine grape variety and is one of the oldest grapes cultivated by humans, with a history dating back over a thousand years. The name “Pinot Noir” is derived from the French words for pine and black, referring to the grape’s tightly clustered, pine cone-shaped bunches of dark fruit.
Pinot Noir is most famously associated with the Burgundy region of France, particularly the Côte-d’Or. However, it is also grown in many other regions around the world, including the Willamette Valley in Oregon, the Russian River Valley in California, Central Otago in New Zealand, the Yarra Valley in Australia and in many English vineyards. Each of these regions brings out different characteristics in the grape, influenced by their unique climates and soils.
Why It’s Fussy
Pinot Noir is often referred to as the “heartbreak grape” because it is notoriously difficult to cultivate and vinify. The grape’s thin skins make it susceptible to a variety of viticultural hazards, including rot and disease. It also requires a cool climate to thrive, but not too cool, as it is sensitive to frost.
The tightly packed clusters can lead to uneven ripening, and the grape’s low levels of phenolic compounds result in wines that can be unpredictable in their aging process. I’m known to be quite fussy myself, so perhaps that’s why this is my all-time favourite grape variety.
Pinot Noir wines are typically light to medium-bodied with a pale to medium colour. They are known for their complex and nuanced flavour profiles, which can include red fruit aromas like cherry, raspberry, and strawberry, along with earthy undertones of mushroom, forest floor, and sometimes even tea leaves and clove. The wines often have high acidity and low tannins, contributing to their elegance and subtlety. As Pinot Noir ages, it can develop more vegetal and “barnyard” aromas, adding to its complexity.
Over the past week I’ve tasted over 20 Pinot Noir wines and have the pleasure of recommending some of my favourites…
Le Bijou de Sophie Valrose Pinot Noir 2023 (£10 at OCADO)
I’ve only ever tried their Rose wines, so I was delighted to learn that Le Bijou makes red too.
The Le Bijou de Sophie Valrose range is a tribute to the legacy of Sophie Valrose, a woman who championed the rights of female vineyard workers in Languedoc during the late 19th century.
This wine embodies her spirit and the dedication of Bijou Wines to quality and sustainability.
Produced in the picturesque foothills of the Pyrenees, this Pinot Noir benefits from the unique terroir of the Limoux region, where the oceanic and Mediterranean influences converge.
The vineyards, situated at nearly 500 meters above sea level, enjoy a cool climate and significant diurnal temperature variation, which contribute to the wine’s vibrant character.
In the glass, the Le Bijou de Sophie Valrose Pinot Noir 2023 displays a beautiful cherry-red hue.
The nose is greeted with inviting aromas of ripe red fruits and kirsch. On the palate, the wine is vibrant and crisp, with lively acidity that enhances the fruit flavours.
The texture is smooth and silky, making it a delightful and refreshing wine.
This Pinot Noir is versatile and pairs well with a variety of dishes, from roasted poultry and salmon to lamb stew and mushroom risotto.
Its elegant profile and balanced structure make it suitable for both immediate enjoyment and potential aging.
Eminence de Bijou Pinot Noir 2023
The Éminence de Bijou Pinot Noir 2023 is a remarkable wine from France’s Languedoc region, crafted by Bijou Wines. The name “Éminence” signifies the wine’s superior quality and the esteemed reputation of the Bijou brand.
This Pinot Noir is made from grapes grown in the distinctive terroir of La Haute-Vallée, known for its microclimates and higher elevation (400-450 meters above sea level). These conditions contribute to the wine’s freshness and complexity. The cooler climate and significant temperature variations between day and night allow the grapes to fully ripen while maintaining their aromatic qualities.
In the glass, the Éminence de Bijou Pinot Noir 2023 showcases a deep ruby colour. The nose is greeted with an inviting bouquet of pure cherries and red fruits. On the palate, the wine is balanced and round, featuring a fine-tannic structure. The flavour profile includes vibrant red fruit flavours, complemented by a hint of toast from partial aging in French oak barrels. The wine’s freshness and linearity make it a delightful and gastronomic experience.
This Pinot Noir pairs wonderfully with a variety of dishes, from roasted meats and hearty stews to risotto and charcuterie. Its elegant profile and balanced structure make it suitable for both immediate enjoyment and potential aging.
Both wines were awarded gold medals at the 2024 Global Pinot Noir Masters. This competition recognised worldwide is run by the international industry magazine, The Drinks Business.
Kalfu Molu Pinot Noir 2021 (£12.50 from Frontier Wines)
This is a knock-out Chilean Pinot from Casablanca, with the quality: price ratio blowing my mind. The name “Molu” means “west” or “where the sun sets,” reflecting the Mapuche people’s belief that stars would fall into the ocean and transform into starfish.
Produced by Kalfu Wines, this Pinot Noir is crafted from grapes grown in cool, coastal vineyards. The wine is aged for eight months in French oak barrels, which imparts a gentle,
chocolaty toast to the wine. ‘Kalfu’, means ‘blue’ in the language of the indigenous inhabitants of Chile and it the colour of the divine Pacific Ocean that blesses Chile’s coastline where this vineyard is located.
In the glass, it presents a moderately pale but bright ruby colour. The nose is greeted with heady aromas of violet, rose, and bright kirsch-like cherry and raspberry, complemented by subtle oak notes. On the palate, the wine offers a sweet character with a touch of residual sugar, making it creamy and easy to drink. The buoyant fruit quality is balanced by juicy orange acidity and a hint of toast.
This Pinot Noir is expressive and fruity, with upfront aromas of cherries and raspberries, lightly spiced with hints of vanilla and cinnamon. The finish is long and clean, making it a versatile wine that pairs well with a variety of fine foods.
At its price point, the Kalfu ‘Molu’ Pinot Noir 2021 delivers a nicely rounded package, perfect for both immediate enjoyment and potential aging.
Ashling Park Estate Selection Pinot Noir 2022 (£29.50 from Ashling Park Estate)
England may not be the first place that comes to mind for red wines, but Ashling Park is redefining expectations. I’ve always enjoyed their award-winning sparkling wines, but this is the first time I’ve tasted their still Pinot Noir. The Ashling Park Estate Selection Pinot Noir 2022 recently clinched the trophy for ‘Best Still Pinot Noir’ at the Wine GB Awards 2024, and it’s clear why.
This wine pours a stunning, deep ruby red, hinting at the richness and depth of flavours within. The nose reveals an enticing bouquet of dark cherry and blackberry, enhanced by subtle oak notes from its aging in French and American oak barrels. On the palate, it offers a harmonious blend of dark fruit flavours with a touch of spice. The oak aging adds complexity and structure, making each sip a delightful experience. The wine is well-balanced, with a smooth, lingering finish that leaves you wanting more.
I’ve visited Ashling Park on a number of occasions and can thoroughly recommend it for a tasting, followed by a long lunch. And if you don’t want to leave, then you can take advantage of the option to take overnight, overlooking the vineyards.
Villa Maria Private Bin Pinot Noir 2022 (£9.99-13 Waitrose, Tesco, Morrisons)
This Pinot Noir hails from the renowned Marlborough region of New Zealand, a place celebrated for its exceptional Pinot Noir. The name “Private Bin” signifies the winery’s
commitment to producing high-quality wines from specially selected vineyards.
Produced by Villa Maria, one of New Zealand’s most esteemed wineries with over 60 years of rich winemaking, this Pinot Noir showcases the expertise and dedication of its winemakers. The grapes are sourced from the Awatere and Wairau Valleys, known for their ideal growing conditions for Pinot Noir.
In the glass, the Villa Maria Private Bin Pinot Noir 2022 reveals a vibrant cherry hue. The nose is greeted with a lovely balance of aromas, including cocktail bitters-like herbs,
mushrooms, and strawberry preserves. On the palate, the wine is light- to medium-bodied, silky, and fresh, with red fruit purity and almost imperceptible tannins. The flavour profile is dominated by red cherries and raspberries, with a dusting of smooth spice.
This Pinot Noir is well-balanced and ready to drink, making it a versatile choice for pairing with a variety of dishes. Its light and fresh character, combined with the vibrant fruit flavours, make it an excellent option for both casual and fine dining experiences.
Errazuriz Wild Ferment Pinot Noir 2022 (£16.45 from Wholefoods Stores)
Errazuriz Wild Ferment Pinot Noir is a testament to the art of winemaking in Chile’s Aconcagua Valley. Crafted from hand-picked grapes, this wine undergoes fermentation with wild yeasts, imparting a distinctive and natural character. It is then aged for ten months in French oak barrels, enhancing its complexity.
The wine presents a rich ruby red hue and an enticing bouquet of cherry, raspberry, and violets, accented by a hint of spice. On the palate, it is elegantly structured with soft tannins and a long, smooth finish. The flavours of red berry fruit are beautifully complemented by earthy undertones and a subtle touch of oak. This Pinot Noir is versatile, perfect for enjoying on its own or paired with grilled salmon, roasted chicken, or hearty vegetarian dishes that benefit from its vibrant acidity.
With its bright cherry red colour, the Wild Ferment Pinot Noir reveals aromas of cherries, roses, and a delicate hint of mushrooms, all framed by soft smoky tones. The palate is round and fresh, showcasing lifted red fruit and lovely spicy notes. Hints of oak and great tension ensure a full and lingering finish.
