14 May 2024
James Cameron visits a restaurant he can’t refuse…
As fans of the Sopranos will know, La Cosa Nostra literally translates as ‘Our Thing’, and was how members of the Mafia crime family would refer to their activities. Away from New York and New Jersey and their thing has become running a well-loved local restaurant, but the Marlon Brando posters on the wall are a nod to the roots of the name, and with that in mind I will have to be very careful with this review to avoid waking up with a horse’s head in my bed.
Luckily, I can give my honest opinion without fear of reprisals as La Cosa Nostra remains an absolute gem, and a charming place to pop to for a quick lunch or a romantic meal. Admittedly we were pretty packed in, and on a busy Saturday night it was very noisy. We ended up in a kind of shouting feedback loop where one table would raise their voices to be heard which would prompt their neighbours to do the same and so on. This all added to the convivial atmosphere, though, and the general happy buzz made a nice background noise.
This convivial atmosphere extended to our hosts, who were welcoming, friendly and happy to accommodate all our various dietary quirks. Whilst allergens were not listed on the menu they definitely knew what they were doing and would adapt accordingly. One of the good things
about pizza (and there are many, many good things about pizza) is that it is remarkably easy to adjust.
Before we get onto the pizzas, though, there were the starters. La Cosa Nostra serve a good range of Italian staples, many of which are pleasingly fried, including for us both whitebait and mozzarella. The Bianchetti Fritti was meltingly crisp and served with a sharp tartar sauce that complimented the little fried fish bits perfectly.
I was also pleasantly surprised by the Mozzarella Carrozza, I was expecting a great big wedge of heavy cheesy fat but when I bit into it, I found it to be pleasantly light and airy, with a nicely seasoned batter. Now, I am not normally one to eschew big wedges of heavy cheesy fat but when you have a pizza coming you don’t want to reach your cheese peak too soon.
On the non-fried side we also had a Bruschetta Pomodoro, this was quite thin but sweet and oily and it really showcased the quality of the ingredients.
Now to the main event. We had ordered a pizza each, and when they came they threatened to overwhelm our small table. When this happens, I consider it to be one of those little victories that make life worth persevering with.
The crust showed a high level of skill and indicated at once that we were on to a winner. It was chewy, and just on the right side of charred. They may want to invest in some sharper knives, however, as it was a bit of a struggle to cut through.
On the vegan side of the table there was no replacement fake cheese, but this was not a bad thing. Whilst cheese replacement technology has advanced significantly over the last few years it can easily overwhelm a pizza, and by avoiding it entirely this risk is averted.
This allowed the other toppings to really come into their own, and a Quattro Stagioni had a great range that also delivered the goods aesthetically. The Giardiniera was well stacked with all the vegetables under the sun, although the spinach seemed like it was no stranger to the inside of a freezer.
For the non-vegans, the Bianca Neve came with creamy white sauce rather than tomato, as the name suggests, on top of which were generous slices of meltingly good parma ham. It all felt rather decadent. Best of all was the Napoletana, each slice of which gave you a salty slap from the anchovies, capers and tuna. The combinations of toppings were perfectly balanced and all built on top of an expert base.
I would go on record that La Cosa Nostra make the best pizzas in St Albans, though this view prompted lively debate around the table.
With all this salt around we needed plenty of liquid refreshment. There was only one beer on the menu, though this did allow me to sing ‘Only Peroni’ in the style of Roy Orbison. The water was served in a strange faux-copper bottle and glasses, and could have done with being cooler.
La Cosa Nostra is the perfect neighbourhood restaurant. It is not ostentatious or expensive, rather it wears its heart on its sleeve and on its pizza.
The clientele is a charming mix of couples on dates and young families (as if to warn the former group of the potential consequences of their evening going too well).
Like the best restaurants it feels like you have wandered into a family’s kitchen at dinner time, where they will do everything in their power to ensure you are both happy and full by the time you leave.
