05 May 2024
Why James Cameron is definitely coming back for more at the Christopher Place eatery…
Hatch is a popular place. So popular that they had to migrate from their previous spot on Holywell Hill to expanded premises in Christopher Place. In fact, so popular that when we first tried to go here their expanded premises had not expanded enough and we were turned away.
This had the beneficial consequence of introducing us to the fantastic bagels at Brad & Dills, but I am very glad that things have calmed down enough now that they were able to squeeze us in.
It was a close run thing though. Even on a Thursday lunchtime the joint was beyond lively. It’s gratifying to see a local business so thoroughly supported, but it’s not surprising as once you’ve visited Hatch you will be looking for excuses to return. The menu is prodigious, but I could happily eat it all. Not all at once, probably, but it has been added to my list of life goals.
The most epic journeys, however, must begin with a single step, and my Hatch adventure kicked off with Tonkatsu. Slightly incongruous on a menu more devoted to brunch, waffles and burgers, I went with this Japanese-style breadcrumb fried pork chop in tribute to the late lamented restaurant Panko, which was in the Holywell Hill site recently vacated by Hatch. We really need some form of Rock Family Tree for St Albans restaurants to keep track of this all.
The schnitzel-like Tonkatsu was amazing, thin and crispy though slightly overwhelmed by the plum dip it was served with (which, to be fair, I didn’t have to keep dipping it in so that’s partly on me). Surprisingly, though, this wasn’t my favourite thing on the plate. The coleslaw was outstanding, with a sharp sesame dressing, and the cucumber had been lightly pickled which really brought out its inherent cucumber-ness. I would say without doubt it was the most cucumbery cucumber I have ever eaten.
My companion also ordered from the Grills and Salads section, choosing the intriguing Vegan Cheez’Burger Tacos. Almost like a deconstructed burger, these were meat substitute, lettuce and gherkins piled on tacos and drizzled with Cheez. Whilst I disapprove of the spelling it really captured the synthetic cheese flavour in your favourite (but not best) cheeseburgers, and it nailed the essence of the dish even more than a limited edition bag of Walkers Crisps.
We shared a serving of hash brown bites, which I would say were Hatch’s signature dish. These were perfectly fried crispiness, well-sized for a single bite.
My only note is they were crying out for a dip more interesting than a squeezy bottle of ketchup to absolutely make them sing.
To drink we had Chai Lattes, topped with a lovely swirly ‘S’ as if brewed by someone named Sorro. These were very highly spiced, definitely nothing wrong with that but possibly lacking the complete rounded flavour profile of the very best Chai.
The waiting staff were attentive and welcoming, and whilst it was not quite an express lunch (I was starting to reach the stage of gazing wistfully at other dishes zooming by the time our food arrived) but we were just about in and out within the hour.
I would definitely like to experience Hatch at night to see how it changes, and so I could drink more beer.
It is the mark of a good restaurant that when I am writing a review I want to be experiencing it all over again, and right now I want to close my eyes and be magically whisked back to start in on their burger options.
